What’s Mine is Yours Safely riding unmarked back roads

back country road

What’s Mine is Yours Safely riding unmarked back roads
IF YOUR LIKE ME, your favorite roads are the lesser-known gems that wind through the back country,  away from traffic and civilization. While those wonderful rural roads can offer up a relaxing ride, they can also present their own set of threats, especially the “lane-and-a-half” variety with no lane markings. On these stretches, “sharing the road” can suddenly mean sharing the same space. Quiet back roads are attractive because we expect them to have little or no traffic. But keep in mind that local drivers have that same expectation. Driving these roads daily, they rarely encounter other vehicles on a typical drive. As a result, they’re often inclined to use more of the road, especially on curves .Without a painted line to define lanes, what’s ours is often claimed as theirs, creating a no man’s land in the middle portion of an already narrow roadway.
The typical cornering strategy calls us to establish an outside line to improve the view around a bend. But an unmarked, narrow back road with limited sight distance calls for a compromise. Think of your lane as less than your half of the pavement. For a right hand bend, establish a position that doesn’t extend wider then the middle of your lane in anticipation of an on coming vehicle partly on your side of the road. Why not just move toward the inside of the lane? Because vehicles tend to drop wheels off the inside edge, kicking dirt, gravel and other debris onto the adjacent road surface. For a left hand bend, position yourself toward the outside of the curve, just in case that wide tractor or truck with a trailer appears suddenly and is taking a wide approach that includes part of your lane. Just Remember, when riding the back country roads. When there are no road markings, what’s mine is your, And theirs.
Keep it safe enjoy your ride
Michael Theodore
National Road Captain

1st Annual New Straitsville, Ohio Biker Sunday June 12,2016

Tom's Flyer

1st Annual New Straitsville, Ohio Biker Sunday
June 12,2016

Looking forward to this first biker Sunday and a  mighty move of God. Looking forward to the ASR fellowship. Pastor David Showalter  from Omaha Nebraska is the guest speaker. Looking forward to what God has for southern Ohio.  Hope to see you in New Straitsville, Ohio. Southern Ohio has some great motorcycle roads to ride.

The Dirt on Riding Un Paved Roads.

off road

The Dirt on Riding Un paved Roads.
dirt road
IT’S THE END OF THE ROAD for many. But it’s just the beginning for those who are comfortable and confident when the pavement ends and gravel or hard packed dirt begins. Why is it we get so uptight when things get loose underfoot (or under tire, as it were)? Because things feel a little weird and unfamiliar on dirt. The motorcycle moves around more beneath us on unpaved surfaces, the front wheel seems to wander and the handlebars come alive in our sweaty palms. In reality, while things feel loose, there is typically more traction on hard packed dirt than riders expect. All of that movement the machine is doing? It’s just the bike’s natural way of finding a suitable path forward. That said, there are a few techniques unique to riding unpaved roads vs a hard, smooth road surface.
Stay lose. Avoid fighting the bike’s surface and, instead loosen your grip and let the motorcycle find its way. Remember the bike doesn’t want to fall any more than you do; it wants to keep moving ahead and stay upright. Keep your eyes up, looking well ahead and the bike will follow. Shift your weight from your seat to your feet. With arches on the pegs (or boots flat on the floorboards) and knees against the tank, steer with your lower body and less with your hands. Unlike riding on pavement, you’ll want to keep your body upright, allowing the bike to lean beneath you in corners to maximize traction. While all of this may feel a bit awkward at first, you’ll soon become more comfortable and more confident as you discover just how well even a large touring motorcycle can navigate dry, unpaved surfaces. And the end of the pavement will be just the beginning of your next riding adventure.
Michael Theodore
National Road Captain

6 Riding Tips for Dealing With Tailgaters


You can not change some drivers’ attitudes, but you can protect yourself. Here’s how.

Tailgaters are not nice. Even though these intruders can make the hair on the back of your neck rise, your main concern needs to be whether the tailgater can stop short of rear-ending you if you need to stop quickly. Trying to change a tailgater’s behavior is about as likely as convincing Donald Trump to endorse Bernie Sanders for president. Any attempts to do so will only distract you from other hazards and could trigger deadly road rage. Instead, I present to you a few tips for minimizing the risk of being the recipient of a Hood Ornament.
1. Check your speed. If people regularly tailgate you then maybe you are not maintaining the expected speed of surrounding traffic. While you should avoid riding faster than you are comfortable, riding too slowly could increase the risk of being tailgated if traffic is moving significantly faster than you are. If this is the case, you may need to find an alternative route where the pace is more to your liking.
2. Let them by. If it becomes apparent that the driver is not going to back off, then find a safe place to pull over. This is often easier said than done, but why let a tailgater ruin your ride if you can let them pass? Be sure to signal early and slow gradually. Then watch as they zoom by to tailgate the next vehicle ahead.
3. Increase your following distance. A common response to a tailgater is to speed up to try and get away from the tailgater’s bumper. But, this usually results in the tailgater also increasing speed. Instead, slow down. No, not to mess with the tailgater to get them mad, but to gain a space cushion ahead of you. This allows you (and the tailgater) ample time and space to slow if necessary. A minimum of 3 seconds should do the trick.
4. Communicate intentions early. Most motorcycle brake lights do not command a lot of visual attention. But you can increase its effectiveness by flashing it two or three times before actually reducing speed. Also, be sure to activate turn signals at least 4 seconds before slowing to give drivers behind you plenty of notice.
5. Use smart lane positioning. To prevent a close call from a tailgater it’s important to choose a lane position that allows you the best angle of view past the vehicle ahead so you can spot problems early and slow gradually. When stopping at a traffic light or stop sign, keep an eye on your mirrors and flash your brake light. Also, place yourself in the right or left-hand portion of your lane to give the driver behind an escape if he can not stop in time.
6. Stay cool. This may be the most crucial. Even though tailgaters can get under our skin, smart riders do not let this bad behavior affect their judgment. Instead, they initiate strategies that prevent these morons from decreasing safety and enjoyment.
Michael Theodore
National Road Captain

Touring Tip: Helping a Stranded Rider

Touring Tip: Helping a Stranded Rider


In the earlier days of motorcycling, when bikes were less reliable, riders frequently became stranded by a mechanical malfunction. Back then, motorcyclists were often as handy with a wrench as they were with the throttle. If they couldn’t fix their own bike, other riders invariably stopped to help out. The bonds among fellow bikers were never stronger.

Today, we’re living in much different times. Modern motorcycles are less prone to breaking down. Crime is more prevalent. Many times a stopped bike along the roadside is due to something other than a mechanical malfunction. The rider may be taking a bio break in the bushes, extracting refreshments from the saddlebags, or some other plausible reason for stopping that doesn’t require assistance. It’s easier nowadays for other riders to rationalize not stopping to ask if help is needed.

In the event an actual mechanical problem is encountered, many, if not most, riders have roadside assistance and carry a cell phone to procure help. I recall an instance when a fellow member of ASR who shall remain nameless—simply ran out of gas. I’ve personally been surprised to find a nail in my rear tire on several occasions.And remember when the spring on my kickstand broke off. Or my headlights went out.So unexpected breakdowns still do happen out on the road!

But let’s suppose a single rider is stranded. How does a passing motorist know if the rider needs help? The universal signal for a car driver needing help is a raised hood. Last time I checked, motorcycles don’t have hoods. So, is there a universal SOS signal for motorcyclists seeking help from passersby?

The Ministry of Transportation in Ontario, Canada, advises that riders who need help should “… place your helmet on the ground near the road.” (Another good reason to wear a helmet, even if it’s not required.) One of the more common hand gestures, used in some locations, is for the passing rider to give a thumbs-up signal, to which the stranded rider would return a thumbs down gesture if help is needed or a thumbs-up if it’s not needed. The stranded rider can also try to get help by waving emphatically. I remember doing this once and the passing motorist just gave a friendly wave back. Of course, most of us would simply pull over and ask if they need help—not too complicated.

What do you do if a rider is stranded? As indicated earlier, we live in a riskier world than our forefathers. Here are several questions to consider:

  • Do I have the tools and expertise to help someone repair their motorcycle?
  • Is it too risky to stop after dark to offer help? Should I offer it only during daylight hours?
  • If a group of riders is stopped, how much can I really add to fixing any problem?
  • Is it safe to stop and offer help to strangers on the road?
  • Does the situation feel OK or do I sense that something isn’t right?
  • Should a single female rider ever stop to help a male rider(s)?

There aren’t any easy, universal answers to these questions. Each rider has to assess the particular circumstances of each situation. My personal experience has shown, though, that riders are often likely to offer help to other riders because of the overarching camaraderie and goodwill among motorcyclists. Do You stop for a stranded rider?

Michael Theodore
National Road Captain

Stuck In Ohio

Ashtabula ASR LOGO

2016 is going to be a very different year for me and the Ashtubla chapter. For years I was blessed to just be able to ride anywhere just about at any given time. Was able to go to any type of event. Just pack up the bike and ride. This year I will be basically stuck in Ohio and just concentrating on Ohio for ASR. I would really like to see someone from Ohio help out and step up this year. I just went back to work in a totally new field started a new career and have no vacation time to use this year. Also my wife and I are taking care of my parents who are 92 & 91 with medical needs. So I will not have the freedom to ride anywhere far. I was really looking forward to meeting and riding to new and different ASR events this year. I gave it a lot of thought whether to stay semi retired or go back to work part time or full time. I sent my resume to our county prison. But the Lord had another plan for me. Some how my resume wound up at my new employment.  North East Ohio Community Alternative Program  (NEOCAP) which is a Community Based Corrections Facility that  provide residential substance abuse treatment and programming. NEOCAP’S MISSION is to provide a viable sentencing option to the Common Pleas Courts of the five member counties here and protect the public safety by providing an intensive, highly structured treatment program in a secure facility. NEOCAP provides an environment where change through learning new behavior can occur to enable residents to return to their communities as productive members of society.
In stead of working with hardcore prisoners. I am working with lesser offense Inmates which we call residents. I know the Lord moved my resume and the hearts of my supervisors. Because this place was not hiring at the time and you have to have a degree in this field or worked in it. Which I have  zero experience in this field or a degree in this field. I intrigued them by scoring extremely high on a test after my first two interviews.They liked that and said We can teach you. You have what it takes and what we need here. I have to take a six program class and six two hour tests which I have to pass on all six test to be certified in this field. I have successfully passed my first one. My second test is this Friday. Please pray that I complete and pass the entire program.
I know this is where I’m supposed to be. The Lord is already opening doors here at my work place praise God. This job will not keep me from missing any church praise God. Just missing out on meeting new ASR members and riding to new events.
Michael Theodore
National Road captain


HD New Year



dsc03533 Left-Curve-Side-Road-Sign-X-W1-10L Right-Curve-Side-Road-Sign-X-W1-10R


On any Given Ride, we are presented with countless road signs along the way, each strategically placed to guide and warn us of potential danger. Are there particular signs that suggest more of a threat than others? I believe there are. Consider the commonly seen signs I have posted here. Each represent a routine curve to either the left or right. Each also indicates a junction with a side road at some point mid-corner. Although, at face value, neither sign appears to suggest a higher priority over the other, one distinction presents higher risk to the rider. Of course, all intersections deserve our full attention. But knowing that traffic crossing or entering our lane is the leading cause of multi-vehicle crashes, a curve with a junction to the right is of particular importance, especially if that curve has an obstructed view like your behind a car. Assume an advancing left-turning driver (who would also have a limited view of our approach) will be crossing our path as we appear. By making this sign a high priority, we can anticipate the turning car before we even enter the corner, and then take necessary precautions to avoid a mid-corner conflict.
The best position a rider should be in when approaching that  blind left curve with a road to the right when behind a car. Is to position your bike to the outside of the blind curve. Meaning position the bike to the outside far right of  your lane. This position increases your line of sight and provides the most advanced visual warning possible. Now start slowing your approach to the corner leaving some space behind the car in front of you. So you can stop if need be or make a quick adjustment. But don’t let the car in front of you get to far a head. This would invite the turning car right into your lane and path.
Don’t over look signs

Ten Steps to Winterize your Motorcycle


Ten Steps to Winterize your Motorcycle


If your idea of storing your bike for winter is just throwing a cover over it, you may be in for some nasty surprises come spring time. The last thing you want to find out when riding season starts is that your bike won’t, so use these tips to make sure your bike is as ready as you are when it’s time to ride!

We may not want to admit it, but winter is just around the corner. And as the air cools off and the snow starts falling, most of us riders store our bikes and impatiently wait for spring to ride again.

But storing your bike in the winter isn’t as simple as just throwing a cover over it and hopping in the car. In order to keep your motorcycle in top running condition, there is some work that needs to be done before storing it for several months (talk about adding insult to the injury of not being able to ride!)

However, if you properly get your bike ready for winter storage, it’ll make getting it  running again when the riding season begins a whole lot easier, and prevent any unwanted surprises such as dead batteries, corrosion, and rust spots (or worse.)

Depending on what kind of motorcycle you ride there may be different things that will need to  addressed. But there is some general wisdom on how to get it ready to be stored for the winter. Your main enemy during winter storage is damage from moisture, so most of our winterizing efforts will be aimed at keeping that away from your bike. In addition, well give some love to your fuel system, battery, tires, and all your moving parts as well.

With just a little prep work using these ten simple steps, you’ll save yourself a lot of time and hassle come spring time, and your bike will be ready to hit the road as soon as you are!

1) Surface Prep

Washing your bike when nobody will see it for a few months  can be a drag, but giving your bike a thorough cleaning before storage is important; letting bug guts or water spots sit on your paint can corrode the finish permanently. Wash your bike and dry it completely to get all the moisture off the surfaces (an electric leaf blower is a great way to get all the nooks and crannies really dry.)

Add a coat of wax, which will act as a barrier against moisture and rust. Finally, spray exposed metal surface with WD-40 to displace all moisture (fun fact: the WD in “WD-40” stands for water displacement) and to give them a protective coating against corrosion.

2) Change Oil and Filter

Change your oil and filter. It’s better for your lubrication system to have fresh oil sitting in it for several months than to have used, broken down oil in it, not to mention the last thing you’ll want to do when riding season begins is change the oil before you can go ride. Using a winter weight oil like 5W30 can help it start up easier come spring time as well.

If you’re going to be storing your bike for a long time (4-6 months or more) you will want to protect your engine’s internals against moisture by coating them lightly with oil. You may not be able to see it with your naked eye, but the cold winter air is perfect for moisture to gather in your engine and cause rust to form on your pistons and cylinder walls.

In order to do this, remove the spark plugs and put a little squirt (about a tablespoon) of engine oil into the holes, then turn your engine over a few times to coat the cylinder walls by spinning the rear wheel with the bike in gear. Once everything is coated, replace the spark plugs.

3) Lube Moving Parts

Keeping moving parts lubed during the winter will help keep moisture from building up on them and causing any rusting or binding. Any part of your motorcycle that needs to be lubed at any point should be lubed again before storage. Some parts to check are: chain drive, cables, controls, fork surfaces, and any other pivot points.

4) Prep Fuel System

Gas tanks have a tendency to rust when not in use, and untreated pump gas breaks down and becomes gummy over time. To prevent rusting and make sure your fuel is ready to run after a few months in storage, you’ll want to fill your tank completely with fuel treated with a product like Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer  Star brite Star Tron – Enzyme Fuel Treatment

On your last ride of the season, stop in at the gas station nearest to where you will be storing your bike and add the proper amount of fuel stabilizer, then top off the tank. A full tank will keep moisture from building up on the tank walls, and adding the stabilizer before the short ride home will help mix the gas and stabilizer together and run it through your fuel system before storage.

Note: Another method that some some do is to drain the tank and fuel system completely. This is more troublesome to do, and requires that you treat the inside of the tank with fogging oil to prevent rusting. This method may be preferred for very long-term storage (6 months or more), but for winter storage, a full tank of treated fuel is easier and completely safe to do for both carbureted and fuel-injected bikes.

5) Safeguard Battery

Batteries have a tendency to self-discharge when sitting over time, especially when they remain hooked up to the bike. The easiest way to combat this is to hook up a battery tender like the Battery Tender Super Smart Junior which uses smart technology to monitor the charge and keep the battery topped off without overcharging. Normally you should pull the battery from the bike for storage, but with a smart tender you can also connect the tender with the battery left in the bike. Before doing this, make sure the electrodes are clean and corrosion free; if necessary, clean them off and give them a light coating of grease.

6) Protect Tires

If your tires are left to sit in the same position all winter long, they could develop flat spots. Keeping the tires off of the ground will prevent this, so if you have motorcycle stands, put the bike up on them for storage. If you don’t have stands, try to get at least the rear tire off the ground, or you can rotate your tires by rolling your motorcycle slightly every few weeks. If you need to leave your tires down on concrete, put a piece of carpet or plywood under them to keep any moisture from seeping into them.

7) Check Coolant/Anti-freeze

If you’ll be storing your bike somewhere that gets below freezing, make sure you have adequate levels of anti-freeze in your coolant system. This is very important; if you run straight water in your coolant system and it freezes, you could come back to a cracked head in the spring!

8) Plug Out Pests

Mice and other rodents are notorious for hiding from the cold inside exhaust pipes and making homes out of air filters. In order to avoid any furry surprises when it’s time to ride again, plug up your pipes with an exhaust plug like the Muffler Plug. You can also simply stuff your air intake and the ends of your exhaust with some plastic bags – but do use bright colored bags or tie something to them so you don’t forget take them out when you fire up the bike!

9) Keep it Covered

With your motorcycle fully prepped for winter, invest in a proper motorcycle cover. A quality motorcycle cover will not only keep dust off the bike, but will keep the moisture out so it doesn’t get trapped underneath it, and create corrosion or rust. If you’re storing it outside, be sure to get a cover with tie downs to prevent it from blowing loose in wind. If you’re storing it inside you’re in much better shape, but you should still use a cover to prevent dust from building up on it.

10) Theft Protection

If you’re storing your bike outside, bear in mind that being parked unattended for months at a time makes it an easy target for theft. In addition to protecting your bike from weather, using a cover will conceal it from view, and securing it with a heavy lock and chain can give you some peace of mind. Make sure to add some sort of lock or alarm on your bike there are many different aftermarket alarms for bikes out there.

With your bike fully prepared for a few months of hibernation, you’ll find that the winter is the perfect time to get done any maintenance or upgrade projects that you’ve had on your mind. You may not be able to ride in the snow, but nothing is stopping you from getting your hands a little greasy and actually starting one of those projects that you’ve been thinking about all season!

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain


COLD WEATHER RIDERS How To Tackle Winter Like A Pro

winter riding

How To Tackle Winter Like A Pro
Colder months bring their own challenges for motorcyclists. With a little bit of planning and a positive attitude, you can make it through to the warm rays and blue skies of spring. Here are some tips to help you prepare for winter.
Sometimes, Old Man Winter—and holiday travel obligations—simply can’t be beat, and you have to put your bike away for a month or three or four. A few simple steps can help ensure your motorcycle will be ready to ride when it’s time.
First, if at all possible, store the bike inside a garage. It’s amazing how much damage can be done by exposure to the elements, even in a few months.
But before you put it away, take a little time to check the following:
Gas: Top off the tank and add the recommended amount of a fuel stabilizer. This additive will keep your gas from breaking down and leaving a gunky brown “varnish” on the inside of your carburetors (assuming your bike still has carbs). Then start the engine and run it for several minutes to make sure you get the treated gas distributed throughout the fuel system.
Oil: Oil starts out golden and clean, and winds up black and dirty. This is bad. The contaminants in the oil can be corrosive, and you don’t want your engine parts sitting in a corrosive bath all winter. So do yourself a favor and change your oil just before the bike goes into storage.
Coolant: Because most motorcycles don’t get a lot of use in sub-freezing temperatures, many riders overlook the importance of checking their coolant for protection against winter freeze-up. Use one of those floating-ball testers to make sure your coolant will resist freezing in the temperatures you experience. If you need to add any, make sure you use the type of coolant recommended by your manufacturer.
Battery: Some modern motorcycles can put a slight drain on a battery to run a clock, maintain radio presets or operate an alarm system. If you’re in this situation, make sure you have a charger system in place to keep your battery alive. Otherwise, at least make sure it starts the winter with a full charge, and give it a recharge every month or so. I keep My bike on a battery manager all year when not in use I simply plug it in.
Other stuff: Some will insist you should store your bike with the tires off the ground. This is a great idea—if you can arrange it. If not, inflate both tires properly, put the bike on its center stand, if your bike has one and every week or so spin the front tire to avoid flat spots. Also, a good coating of wax will help preserve your paint and chrome, and a breathable cloth cover can keep off dirt and dust.
Do it right, and all you’ll have to do come spring is turn the key, press the starter button and begin racking up the miles again.
While cold temperatures and cloudy skies can try to put a damper on your riding, there’s a lot to be said for experiencing the changing landscapes of fall and winter on two wheels. While I don’t advocate riding in truly treacherous conditions (ice and snow, for example), with some commonsense, you can stretch your riding season out considerably, even if you live in the northern United States. I love to ride in the winter. I just make sure there is no ice out on the roads before I head out. I do not ride at night though in the winter months only during the day.
Unlike summer, when you can just throw on the same jacket, gloves and helmet any morning, autumn and winter temperature swings mean you need to think before you ride.
In many parts of the country, it’s not uncommon to see temperature swings of 20 degrees or more from morning to afternoon. That may not matter much when the high and low are 80 and 60, but it can make an enormous difference in your comfort level when the numbers involved are, say, 40 and 20. With the chilling effect of air flowing past at 65 mph, the perceived difference to exposed skin can be 20 to 30 degrees or more.
Here’s a simple, three-step program to help dull the sting of those colder temperatures.
Remember the last time you were at an overcrowded event? Remember how hot it got? That’s a real-world example of one important fact: The human body is a pretty good source of heat. So as the temperature drops, your first priority should be to preserve as much of that heat as possible. Here are a few tips:
Think layers: What keeps you warm it isn’t just the material in the clothes you wear. It’s also the air trapped inside. That’s one reason why a few lighter layers are better than one heavy one for fall riding. Plus, layered clothing allows you to fine-tune your comfort level by adding or subtracting a layer in variable autumn temperatures.
Build a base: The stuff you wear right next to your skin is called a base layer, and it can be incredibly important in staying warm. Old-school cotton provides warmth, but if you sweat, it’ll stay damp, and you’ll get chilled. Synthetics like polyester wick away perspiration to give you more consistent warmth, and they adapt better when the temperature goes up. Looking for an unconventional choice? Some well-traveled motorcyclists swear by silk long underwear for its combination of warmth and comfort.
Get fleeced: Remember when you were a kid and your mom dressed you in so many layers of winter clothes you could hardly move? It didn’t work for throwing snowballs then, and it won’t work for operating a motorcycle today. What you need is a light insulating layer that fits comfortably inside your riding jacket. Consider an inflatable vest, which makes maximum use of the insulating properties of trapped air. Best of all, you can adjust the level of insulation by adding or subtracting air through an inflation tube.
Adapt to conditions: Lots of riding jackets offer liners you can zip in when the weather gets chilly. Some are just thermal vests, which can leave your arms unprotected from the cold, while others have an entire inner jacket for maximum warmth. Remember, though, that this is likely to be the layer you’ll want to shed first when the sun gets high in the sky. So plan space to carry it on the bike.
Get dressed inside: If it’s chilly in your garage or the parking lot of your hotel, be sure to put most of your gear on indoors. There’s a fine balance here—you want to retain the indoor heat, but you don’t want to seal everything up and start sweating. You might want to zip that last zipper just as you’re headed out the door.
Have a glove strategy: Some riders carry as many as four pairs of gloves on a cold-weather ride, with heavy gloves, lighter gloves, glove liners and rain gloves. There’s good reason to take this element seriously: Your hands are the most important interface between you and your bike. When they get cold, your ability to operate your bike safely is compromised.
Cover your head: If it works for ninjas, it can work for you. We’re talking, of course, about wearing a balaclava—a thin head-and-face covering that allows only your eyes to show. Sure, you look funny. But you’ll be warmer. You can find balaclava’s in motorcycle shops or outdoor stores. Just make sure the one you buy is thin enough so you can still get your lid on.
Wear a full-face helmet: It may seem obvious, but a full-face helmet can keep you much warmer than an open-face lid. The trade-off is that you risk fogging your face shield, so keep it cracked while moving, and be ready to open it wide when you stop.

dress for winter

You can be wearing all the layers in the world, but if they don’t prevent the wind from getting in, sooner or later, you’ll get cold. So consider these strategies for fending off wind.
Stop it cold: Make sure your outermost layer is windproof. Leather is pretty good at this, and so are some high-tech fabrics, but you probably already have an effective wind-block layer in your tank bag—your rain suit. No, it doesn’t add warmth, but it can be remarkably effective in keeping the chill out.
Watch where clothing overlaps: When the wind is blowing at 65 mph, it will find its way through any cracks in your cold-weather armor. Take the time to pull your gloves completely over your jacket sleeves and clinch them down tight. At the waist, “weave” upper and lower layers over each other—pants over base-layer top, fleece pullover over pants, rain suit pants over fleece pullover, jacket over rain suit pants, etc.—to keep the wind at bay. Finally, make sure there’s no gap between your pants and boots.
Don’t stick your neck out: When it comes to heat loss, one of the most vulnerable areas is your neck. Even a simple bandana can help, but there are products made specifically to protect this area.
Don’t forget the bike: You don’t have to wear all your wind protection. A fairing, even a small one, can make a tremendous difference in cooler weather. In addition, many dual-sport bikes and adventure-tourers come with hand guards that serve as mini-fairing’s for your hands. Don’t have a fairing? A well-packed tank bag can be almost as effective in blunting the wind.
Few things in life beat the sense of well-being that comes from riding down the road on a chilly day all toasty warm. You can get that feeling with electric clothing.
What’s especially nice is that most electric garments offer some level of insulation when they’re turned off, too, meaning they’re perfect for variable fall weather.
Here’s what’s out there:
Going electric: In the beginning, electric clothing for motorcyclists meant vests. That’s still a good starting point, because if you can keep your body’s core well-heated, your extremities should stay warmer, too. These days, though, they have come a long way for motorcycle riders. Now you can choose from electric jackets, liners, pants, chaps, gloves’s and socks. If your alternator is up to the challenge of powering them, those pieces can generate enough heat for extended forays in sub-freezing temperatures.
Hand warmers: Like other electric clothing, heated gloves turn your bike’s generating system into protective warmth. Here, though, it’s more than just comfort at stake. Warm fingers handle the throttle, brake and clutch more safely than stiff, frozen digits. Plus, electric gloves can often be thinner than their fully insulated counterparts, making for better control feel.
Hot bikes: Instead of wearing your heated gear, you can outfit your bike with electrics. Heated handgrips come standard on some models, and they’re available as options on some other bikes. Some companies sell do-it-yourself kits to warm up the grips on almost any machine. Want to get your heat from another direction? Try a heated seat, available as a factory option  for a variety of bikes. There are aftermarket company’s out there with a heated seat for almost every bike. On my Ultra Limited I have heated grips along with my heated seat and passenger seat and backrest. I use my full heated gear jacket liner,gloves,pants and socks when I ride in the winter months. And this has made one huge difference in why I ride and can stay out all day long riding in the cold months.
Hope these tips helped you out some remember if you do ride in the winter months slow it down some ride safe.
Michael Theodore
National Road Captain