Michael Theodore – Page 27 – Azusa StreetRiders International

February 25, 2016

Touring Tip: Helping a Stranded Rider

In the earlier days of motorcycling, when bikes were less reliable, riders frequently became stranded by a mechanical malfunction. Back then, motorcyclists were often as handy with a wrench as they were with the throttle. If they couldn’t fix their own bike, other riders invariably stopped to help out. The bonds among fellow bikers were never stronger.

Today, we’re living in much different times. Modern motorcycles are less prone to breaking down. Crime is more prevalent. Many times a stopped bike along the roadside is due to something other than a mechanical malfunction. The rider may be taking a bio break in the bushes, extracting refreshments from the saddlebags, or some other plausible reason for stopping that doesn’t require assistance. It’s easier nowadays for other riders to rationalize not stopping to ask if help is needed.

In the event an actual mechanical problem is encountered, many, if not most, riders have roadside assistance and carry a cell phone to procure help. I recall an instance when a fellow member of ASR who shall remain nameless—simply ran out of gas. I’ve personally been surprised to find a nail in my rear tire on several occasions.And remember when the spring on my kickstand broke off. Or my headlights went out.So unexpected breakdowns still do happen out on the road!

But let’s suppose a single rider is stranded. How does a passing motorist know if the rider needs help? The universal signal for a car driver needing help is a raised hood. Last time I checked, motorcycles don’t have hoods. So, is there a universal SOS signal for motorcyclists seeking help from passersby?

The Ministry of Transportation in Ontario, Canada, advises that riders who need help should “… place your helmet on the ground near the road.” (Another good reason to wear a helmet, even if it’s not required.) One of the more common hand gestures, used in some locations, is for the passing rider to give a thumbs-up signal, to which the stranded rider would return a thumbs down gesture if help is needed or a thumbs-up if it’s not needed. The stranded rider can also try to get help by waving emphatically. I remember doing this once and the passing motorist just gave a friendly wave back. Of course, most of us would simply pull over and ask if they need help—not too complicated.

What do you do if a rider is stranded? As indicated earlier, we live in a riskier world than our forefathers. Here are several questions to consider:

Do I have the tools and expertise to help someone repair their motorcycle?
Is it too risky to stop after dark to offer help? Should I offer it only during daylight hours?
If a group of riders is stopped, how much can I really add to fixing any problem?
Is it safe to stop and offer help to strangers on the road?
Does the situation feel OK or do I sense that something isn’t right?
Should a single female rider ever stop to help a male rider(s)?

There aren’t any easy, universal answers to these questions. Each rider has to assess the particular circumstances of each situation. My personal experience has shown, though, that riders are often likely to offer help to other riders because of the overarching camaraderie and goodwill among motorcyclists. Do You stop for a stranded rider?

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain

January 31, 2016

Stuck In Ohio

2016 is going to be a very different year for me and the Ashtubla chapter. For years I was blessed to just be able to ride anywhere just about at any given time. Was able to go to any type of event. Just pack up the bike and ride. This year I will be basically stuck in Ohio and just concentrating on Ohio for ASR. I would really like to see someone from Ohio help out and step up this year. I just went back to work in a totally new field started a new career and have no vacation time to use this year. Also my wife and I are taking care of my parents who are 92 & 91 with medical needs. So I will not have the freedom to ride anywhere far. I was really looking forward to meeting and riding to new and different ASR events this year. I gave it a lot of thought whether to stay semi retired or go back to work part time or full time. I sent my resume to our county prison. But the Lord had another plan for me. Some how my resume wound up at my new employment. North East Ohio Community Alternative Program (NEOCAP) which is a Community Based Corrections Facility that provide residential substance abuse treatment and programming. NEOCAP’S MISSION is to provide a viable sentencing option to the Common Pleas Courts of the five member counties here and protect the public safety by providing an intensive, highly structured treatment program in a secure facility. NEOCAP provides an environment where change through learning new behavior can occur to enable residents to return to their communities as productive members of society.

In stead of working with hardcore prisoners. I am working with lesser offense Inmates which we call residents. I know the Lord moved my resume and the hearts of my supervisors. Because this place was not hiring at the time and you have to have a degree in this field or worked in it. Which I have zero experience in this field or a degree in this field. I intrigued them by scoring extremely high on a test after my first two interviews.They liked that and said We can teach you. You have what it takes and what we need here. I have to take a six program class and six two hour tests which I have to pass on all six test to be certified in this field. I have successfully passed my first one. My second test is this Friday. Please pray that I complete and pass the entire program.

I know this is where I’m supposed to be. The Lord is already opening doors here at my work place praise God. This job will not keep me from missing any church praise God. Just missing out on meeting new ASR members and riding to new events.

Michael Theodore

National Road captain

December 29, 2015

HAPPY NEW YEAR

THE ASHTABULA OHIO CHAPTER WOULD LIKE TO WISH YOU ALL A VERY BLESSED AND HAPPY NEW YEAR. WE ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO AN EXCITING YEAR IN ASR AND FOR OHIO.

December 29, 2015

SIGN,SIGN,EVERYWHERE A SIGN

SIGN,SIGN,EVERYWHERE A SIGN

On any Given Ride, we are presented with countless road signs along the way, each strategically placed to guide and warn us of potential danger. Are there particular signs that suggest more of a threat than others? I believe there are. Consider the commonly seen signs I have posted here. Each represent a routine curve to either the left or right. Each also indicates a junction with a side road at some point mid-corner. Although, at face value, neither sign appears to suggest a higher priority over the other, one distinction presents higher risk to the rider. Of course, all intersections deserve our full attention. But knowing that traffic crossing or entering our lane is the leading cause of multi-vehicle crashes, a curve with a junction to the right is of particular importance, especially if that curve has an obstructed view like your behind a car. Assume an advancing left-turning driver (who would also have a limited view of our approach) will be crossing our path as we appear. By making this sign a high priority, we can anticipate the turning car before we even enter the corner, and then take necessary precautions to avoid a mid-corner conflict.

The best position a rider should be in when approaching that blind left curve with a road to the right when behind a car. Is to position your bike to the outside of the blind curve. Meaning position the bike to the outside far right of your lane. This position increases your line of sight and provides the most advanced visual warning possible. Now start slowing your approach to the corner leaving some space behind the car in front of you. So you can stop if need be or make a quick adjustment. But don’t let the car in front of you get to far a head. This would invite the turning car right into your lane and path.

Don’t over look signs

MICHAEL THEODORE

NATIONAL ROAD CAPTIAN

November 28, 2015

Ten Steps to Winterize your Motorcycle

If your idea of storing your bike for winter is just throwing a cover over it, you may be in for some nasty surprises come spring time. The last thing you want to find out when riding season starts is that your bike won’t, so use these tips to make sure your bike is as ready as you are when it’s time to ride!

We may not want to admit it, but winter is just around the corner. And as the air cools off and the snow starts falling, most of us riders store our bikes and impatiently wait for spring to ride again.

But storing your bike in the winter isn’t as simple as just throwing a cover over it and hopping in the car. In order to keep your motorcycle in top running condition, there is some work that needs to be done before storing it for several months (talk about adding insult to the injury of not being able to ride!)

However, if you properly get your bike ready for winter storage, it’ll make getting it running again when the riding season begins a whole lot easier, and prevent any unwanted surprises such as dead batteries, corrosion, and rust spots (or worse.)

Depending on what kind of motorcycle you ride there may be different things that will need to addressed. But there is some general wisdom on how to get it ready to be stored for the winter. Your main enemy during winter storage is damage from moisture, so most of our winterizing efforts will be aimed at keeping that away from your bike. In addition, well give some love to your fuel system, battery, tires, and all your moving parts as well.

With just a little prep work using these ten simple steps, you’ll save yourself a lot of time and hassle come spring time, and your bike will be ready to hit the road as soon as you are!

1) Surface Prep

Washing your bike when nobody will see it for a few months can be a drag, but giving your bike a thorough cleaning before storage is important; letting bug guts or water spots sit on your paint can corrode the finish permanently. Wash your bike and dry it completely to get all the moisture off the surfaces (an electric leaf blower is a great way to get all the nooks and crannies really dry.)

Add a coat of wax, which will act as a barrier against moisture and rust. Finally, spray exposed metal surface with WD-40 to displace all moisture (fun fact: the WD in “WD-40” stands for water displacement) and to give them a protective coating against corrosion.

2) Change Oil and Filter

Change your oil and filter. It’s better for your lubrication system to have fresh oil sitting in it for several months than to have used, broken down oil in it, not to mention the last thing you’ll want to do when riding season begins is change the oil before you can go ride. Using a winter weight oil like 5W30 can help it start up easier come spring time as well.

If you’re going to be storing your bike for a long time (4-6 months or more) you will want to protect your engine’s internals against moisture by coating them lightly with oil. You may not be able to see it with your naked eye, but the cold winter air is perfect for moisture to gather in your engine and cause rust to form on your pistons and cylinder walls.

In order to do this, remove the spark plugs and put a little squirt (about a tablespoon) of engine oil into the holes, then turn your engine over a few times to coat the cylinder walls by spinning the rear wheel with the bike in gear. Once everything is coated, replace the spark plugs.

3) Lube Moving Parts

Keeping moving parts lubed during the winter will help keep moisture from building up on them and causing any rusting or binding. Any part of your motorcycle that needs to be lubed at any point should be lubed again before storage. Some parts to check are: chain drive, cables, controls, fork surfaces, and any other pivot points.

4) Prep Fuel System

Gas tanks have a tendency to rust when not in use, and untreated pump gas breaks down and becomes gummy over time. To prevent rusting and make sure your fuel is ready to run after a few months in storage, you’ll want to fill your tank completely with fuel treated with a product like Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer Star brite Star Tron – Enzyme Fuel Treatment

On your last ride of the season, stop in at the gas station nearest to where you will be storing your bike and add the proper amount of fuel stabilizer, then top off the tank. A full tank will keep moisture from building up on the tank walls, and adding the stabilizer before the short ride home will help mix the gas and stabilizer together and run it through your fuel system before storage.

Note: Another method that some some do is to drain the tank and fuel system completely. This is more troublesome to do, and requires that you treat the inside of the tank with fogging oil to prevent rusting. This method may be preferred for very long-term storage (6 months or more), but for winter storage, a full tank of treated fuel is easier and completely safe to do for both carbureted and fuel-injected bikes.

5) Safeguard Battery

Batteries have a tendency to self-discharge when sitting over time, especially when they remain hooked up to the bike. The easiest way to combat this is to hook up a battery tender like the Battery Tender Super Smart Junior which uses smart technology to monitor the charge and keep the battery topped off without overcharging. Normally you should pull the battery from the bike for storage, but with a smart tender you can also connect the tender with the battery left in the bike. Before doing this, make sure the electrodes are clean and corrosion free; if necessary, clean them off and give them a light coating of grease.

6) Protect Tires

If your tires are left to sit in the same position all winter long, they could develop flat spots. Keeping the tires off of the ground will prevent this, so if you have motorcycle stands, put the bike up on them for storage. If you don’t have stands, try to get at least the rear tire off the ground, or you can rotate your tires by rolling your motorcycle slightly every few weeks. If you need to leave your tires down on concrete, put a piece of carpet or plywood under them to keep any moisture from seeping into them.

7) Check Coolant/Anti-freeze

If you’ll be storing your bike somewhere that gets below freezing, make sure you have adequate levels of anti-freeze in your coolant system. This is very important; if you run straight water in your coolant system and it freezes, you could come back to a cracked head in the spring!

8) Plug Out Pests

Mice and other rodents are notorious for hiding from the cold inside exhaust pipes and making homes out of air filters. In order to avoid any furry surprises when it’s time to ride again, plug up your pipes with an exhaust plug like the Muffler Plug. You can also simply stuff your air intake and the ends of your exhaust with some plastic bags – but do use bright colored bags or tie something to them so you don’t forget take them out when you fire up the bike!

9) Keep it Covered

With your motorcycle fully prepped for winter, invest in a proper motorcycle cover. A quality motorcycle cover will not only keep dust off the bike, but will keep the moisture out so it doesn’t get trapped underneath it, and create corrosion or rust. If you’re storing it outside, be sure to get a cover with tie downs to prevent it from blowing loose in wind. If you’re storing it inside you’re in much better shape, but you should still use a cover to prevent dust from building up on it.

10) Theft Protection

If you’re storing your bike outside, bear in mind that being parked unattended for months at a time makes it an easy target for theft. In addition to protecting your bike from weather, using a cover will conceal it from view, and securing it with a heavy lock and chain can give you some peace of mind. Make sure to add some sort of lock or alarm on your bike there are many different aftermarket alarms for bikes out there.

With your bike fully prepared for a few months of hibernation, you’ll find that the winter is the perfect time to get done any maintenance or upgrade projects that you’ve had on your mind. You may not be able to ride in the snow, but nothing is stopping you from getting your hands a little greasy and actually starting one of those projects that you’ve been thinking about all season!

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain

November 10, 2015

COLD WEATHER RIDERS How To Tackle Winter Like A Pro

COLD WEATHER RIDERS
How To Tackle Winter Like A Pro

WINTER RIDING TIPS

Colder months bring their own challenges for motorcyclists. With a little bit of planning and a positive attitude, you can make it through to the warm rays and blue skies of spring. Here are some tips to help you prepare for winter.

WINTERIZING YOUR BIKE

Sometimes, Old Man Winter—and holiday travel obligations—simply can’t be beat, and you have to put your bike away for a month or three or four. A few simple steps can help ensure your motorcycle will be ready to ride when it’s time.
First, if at all possible, store the bike inside a garage. It’s amazing how much damage can be done by exposure to the elements, even in a few months.
But before you put it away, take a little time to check the following:
Gas: Top off the tank and add the recommended amount of a fuel stabilizer. This additive will keep your gas from breaking down and leaving a gunky brown “varnish” on the inside of your carburetors (assuming your bike still has carbs). Then start the engine and run it for several minutes to make sure you get the treated gas distributed throughout the fuel system.
Oil: Oil starts out golden and clean, and winds up black and dirty. This is bad. The contaminants in the oil can be corrosive, and you don’t want your engine parts sitting in a corrosive bath all winter. So do yourself a favor and change your oil just before the bike goes into storage.
Coolant: Because most motorcycles don’t get a lot of use in sub-freezing temperatures, many riders overlook the importance of checking their coolant for protection against winter freeze-up. Use one of those floating-ball testers to make sure your coolant will resist freezing in the temperatures you experience. If you need to add any, make sure you use the type of coolant recommended by your manufacturer.
Battery: Some modern motorcycles can put a slight drain on a battery to run a clock, maintain radio presets or operate an alarm system. If you’re in this situation, make sure you have a charger system in place to keep your battery alive. Otherwise, at least make sure it starts the winter with a full charge, and give it a recharge every month or so. I keep My bike on a battery manager all year when not in use I simply plug it in.
Other stuff: Some will insist you should store your bike with the tires off the ground. This is a great idea—if you can arrange it. If not, inflate both tires properly, put the bike on its center stand, if your bike has one and every week or so spin the front tire to avoid flat spots. Also, a good coating of wax will help preserve your paint and chrome, and a breathable cloth cover can keep off dirt and dust.
Do it right, and all you’ll have to do come spring is turn the key, press the starter button and begin racking up the miles again.

ANY WEATHER, ANY TIME

While cold temperatures and cloudy skies can try to put a damper on your riding, there’s a lot to be said for experiencing the changing landscapes of fall and winter on two wheels. While I don’t advocate riding in truly treacherous conditions (ice and snow, for example), with some commonsense, you can stretch your riding season out considerably, even if you live in the northern United States. I love to ride in the winter. I just make sure there is no ice out on the roads before I head out. I do not ride at night though in the winter months only during the day.
Unlike summer, when you can just throw on the same jacket, gloves and helmet any morning, autumn and winter temperature swings mean you need to think before you ride.
In many parts of the country, it’s not uncommon to see temperature swings of 20 degrees or more from morning to afternoon. That may not matter much when the high and low are 80 and 60, but it can make an enormous difference in your comfort level when the numbers involved are, say, 40 and 20. With the chilling effect of air flowing past at 65 mph, the perceived difference to exposed skin can be 20 to 30 degrees or more.
Here’s a simple, three-step program to help dull the sting of those colder temperatures.

STEP 1: PRESERVE BODY HEAT

Remember the last time you were at an overcrowded event? Remember how hot it got? That’s a real-world example of one important fact: The human body is a pretty good source of heat. So as the temperature drops, your first priority should be to preserve as much of that heat as possible. Here are a few tips:
Think layers: What keeps you warm it isn’t just the material in the clothes you wear. It’s also the air trapped inside. That’s one reason why a few lighter layers are better than one heavy one for fall riding. Plus, layered clothing allows you to fine-tune your comfort level by adding or subtracting a layer in variable autumn temperatures.
Build a base: The stuff you wear right next to your skin is called a base layer, and it can be incredibly important in staying warm. Old-school cotton provides warmth, but if you sweat, it’ll stay damp, and you’ll get chilled. Synthetics like polyester wick away perspiration to give you more consistent warmth, and they adapt better when the temperature goes up. Looking for an unconventional choice? Some well-traveled motorcyclists swear by silk long underwear for its combination of warmth and comfort.
Get fleeced: Remember when you were a kid and your mom dressed you in so many layers of winter clothes you could hardly move? It didn’t work for throwing snowballs then, and it won’t work for operating a motorcycle today. What you need is a light insulating layer that fits comfortably inside your riding jacket. Consider an inflatable vest, which makes maximum use of the insulating properties of trapped air. Best of all, you can adjust the level of insulation by adding or subtracting air through an inflation tube.
Adapt to conditions: Lots of riding jackets offer liners you can zip in when the weather gets chilly. Some are just thermal vests, which can leave your arms unprotected from the cold, while others have an entire inner jacket for maximum warmth. Remember, though, that this is likely to be the layer you’ll want to shed first when the sun gets high in the sky. So plan space to carry it on the bike.
Get dressed inside: If it’s chilly in your garage or the parking lot of your hotel, be sure to put most of your gear on indoors. There’s a fine balance here—you want to retain the indoor heat, but you don’t want to seal everything up and start sweating. You might want to zip that last zipper just as you’re headed out the door.
Have a glove strategy: Some riders carry as many as four pairs of gloves on a cold-weather ride, with heavy gloves, lighter gloves, glove liners and rain gloves. There’s good reason to take this element seriously: Your hands are the most important interface between you and your bike. When they get cold, your ability to operate your bike safely is compromised.
Cover your head: If it works for ninjas, it can work for you. We’re talking, of course, about wearing a balaclava—a thin head-and-face covering that allows only your eyes to show. Sure, you look funny. But you’ll be warmer. You can find balaclava’s in motorcycle shops or outdoor stores. Just make sure the one you buy is thin enough so you can still get your lid on.
Wear a full-face helmet: It may seem obvious, but a full-face helmet can keep you much warmer than an open-face lid. The trade-off is that you risk fogging your face shield, so keep it cracked while moving, and be ready to open it wide when you stop.

STEP 2: BLOCK THE WIND

You can be wearing all the layers in the world, but if they don’t prevent the wind from getting in, sooner or later, you’ll get cold. So consider these strategies for fending off wind.
Stop it cold: Make sure your outermost layer is windproof. Leather is pretty good at this, and so are some high-tech fabrics, but you probably already have an effective wind-block layer in your tank bag—your rain suit. No, it doesn’t add warmth, but it can be remarkably effective in keeping the chill out.
Watch where clothing overlaps: When the wind is blowing at 65 mph, it will find its way through any cracks in your cold-weather armor. Take the time to pull your gloves completely over your jacket sleeves and clinch them down tight. At the waist, “weave” upper and lower layers over each other—pants over base-layer top, fleece pullover over pants, rain suit pants over fleece pullover, jacket over rain suit pants, etc.—to keep the wind at bay. Finally, make sure there’s no gap between your pants and boots.
Don’t stick your neck out: When it comes to heat loss, one of the most vulnerable areas is your neck. Even a simple bandana can help, but there are products made specifically to protect this area.
Don’t forget the bike: You don’t have to wear all your wind protection. A fairing, even a small one, can make a tremendous difference in cooler weather. In addition, many dual-sport bikes and adventure-tourers come with hand guards that serve as mini-fairing’s for your hands. Don’t have a fairing? A well-packed tank bag can be almost as effective in blunting the wind.

STEP 3: ADD HEAT

Few things in life beat the sense of well-being that comes from riding down the road on a chilly day all toasty warm. You can get that feeling with electric clothing.
What’s especially nice is that most electric garments offer some level of insulation when they’re turned off, too, meaning they’re perfect for variable fall weather.
Here’s what’s out there:
Going electric: In the beginning, electric clothing for motorcyclists meant vests. That’s still a good starting point, because if you can keep your body’s core well-heated, your extremities should stay warmer, too. These days, though, they have come a long way for motorcycle riders. Now you can choose from electric jackets, liners, pants, chaps, gloves’s and socks. If your alternator is up to the challenge of powering them, those pieces can generate enough heat for extended forays in sub-freezing temperatures.
Hand warmers: Like other electric clothing, heated gloves turn your bike’s generating system into protective warmth. Here, though, it’s more than just comfort at stake. Warm fingers handle the throttle, brake and clutch more safely than stiff, frozen digits. Plus, electric gloves can often be thinner than their fully insulated counterparts, making for better control feel.
Hot bikes: Instead of wearing your heated gear, you can outfit your bike with electrics. Heated handgrips come standard on some models, and they’re available as options on some other bikes. Some companies sell do-it-yourself kits to warm up the grips on almost any machine. Want to get your heat from another direction? Try a heated seat, available as a factory option for a variety of bikes. There are aftermarket company’s out there with a heated seat for almost every bike. On my Ultra Limited I have heated grips along with my heated seat and passenger seat and backrest. I use my full heated gear jacket liner,gloves,pants and socks when I ride in the winter months. And this has made one huge difference in why I ride and can stay out all day long riding in the cold months.

Hope these tips helped you out some remember if you do ride in the winter months slow it down some ride safe.

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain

October 23, 2015

Touring Tip: Five Common Sources of Motorcycle Accidents & Strategies For Avoiding Them

Defensive Riding Techniques –

ONCOMING, LEFT TURNING VEHICLE: This is probably the most common cause of motorcycle accidents. The driver of an oncoming vehicle doesn’t see a motorcyclist and makes a quick left turn directly in the rider’s path, leaving little or no time to avoid hitting the car.
-Avoidance Strategy: First, it’s always helpful for riders and their bikes to be as conspicuous as possible, which is helped by auxiliary lights ride with your high beam on and high visibility riding gear. Second, look for indications that the oncoming driver may not see you: no eye contact, hands turning the steering wheel, or movement of left front wheel or just plain out on their phone. Third, ride at a safe speed in traffic congested areas, because higher speed equals longer stopping distances. Some riders, however, slow to a crawl when they see a left turning vehicle, but this is an invitation for that driver to turn in front of you! I always move to the farthest part left in my lane makes me a little more visible and gives me more room in case I need to make a fast move. I always have eye contact on that driver. And it is also a great time to use your horn let them know you are there.
ANIMALS IN THE ROAD: I’ve personally experienced running into and over some ground hogs to other rodents in the road. Besides an owl and Vulture. I have the scratch marks on my helmet from that big Vulture. And it doesn’t necessarily take a large critter to take a two-wheeler down.
-Avoidance Strategy: Constantly scan the road and surrounding terrain ahead for animals, particularly when undergrowth and trees are close to the pavement. Also, those “deer warning signs” are usually present for a reason. Be especially alert when riding in the early morning or evening, when animals are the most active. Adjust your speed and cover clutch and brake levers in high-risk areas so emergency stopping distances are appropriate for those conditions. And, of course, it never hurts to periodically practice emergency stops and swerves in a parking lot.
GRAVEL ON BLIND CURVES: Riding through gravel with the bike leaned over at speed is almost certain to result in a crash. The situation worsens if the sliding motorcycle and rider cross the yellow line into the path of an oncoming vehicle—crunch!
-Avoidance Strategy: Gravel on roadways is more likely after heavy rains, near construction sites, and at gravel driveways in rural areas. If riders assume there will be gravel around a blind curve, they are more likely to adjust their entry speed accordingly. It’s also possible to use some light braking in a curve, even with the bike leaned over, especially if the motorcycle has anti lock brakes. But the best technique is usually to avoid the gravel, stand the bike up, and apply maximum braking. Maximizing sight lines is also an important strategy for avoiding all types of hazards on blind curves.
CARS CHANGING LANES: At on ramps or while riding on crowded multi-lane urban roads, an adjacent motorist may suddenly pull directly into your path, leaving little or no time for evasive action.
-Avoidance Strategy: Rule number one is to stay out of the blind spots of other drivers. It’s also important to maximize the space cushion between the rider and other vehicles. Rush hour traffic on multi-lane highways presents the highest risk for other vehicles changing lanes into a rider. If riding at this time can’t be avoided, I’ve found the best strategy is riding in the far left lane so traffic on only the right side must be monitored.
EXCESSIVE SPEED IN A CURVE: A rider suddenly realizes mid-curve that the turn is tighter than expected ( a decreasing radius curve) and panics. Instead of increasing the bike’s lean angle, the rider stops looking through the curve, stiffens his or her arms, and goes straight off the roadway. This often results in the motorcyclist crashing into a stationary object (guardrail, tree, building, etc.) or flying off their bike or road.
-Avoidance Strategy: Pay attention to that little voice in your head when it says, “I’m riding above my skill level.” Of course, the easiest way to avoid crashing on a curve is to do what’s taught in the basic MSF course: slow the bike before entering a curve and accelerate out of it. Even a highly skilled rider always should keep some of his bike’s lean angle in reserve in case it’s needed. Remember it is ok to scrap you pegs/running boards.

Safe riding practices help motorcyclists avoid accidents and bodily injury, and they also build rider confidence and enjoyment.

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain

October 21, 2015

Adjusting Your Riding Style

When changing the style of motorcycle you are riding, what is the most important adjustment to make? Should your riding style change?

A rider needs to make adjustments anytime he or she straddles an unfamiliar motorcycle, even for one in the same category.

The adjustments relate to such factors as the bike’s riding position (seat height and relationship between seat, footrests, and handlebars),dimensional characteristics (weight,wheelbase,steering head angle, center of gravity, tire size and tire profile), responsiveness of controls (throttle,clutch friction zone and brake pressure), and power – to – weight ratio.

Sport bikes are at one end of the spectrum, with lighter weight, shorter wheelbases, steering head angles closer to vertical, and quicker – revving engines, and they generally provide higher levels of responsiveness to throttle, brake, and handlebar input. This means you may need to be softer with your inputs until you have accumulated some miles manipulating the controls.

Safety tip: While in neutral, get a feel for how much throttle twist is needed to raise engine speed.

Comfort tip: Avoid supporting all your weight on your wrists and engage your core abdominal and back muscles instead. Keep your head and eyes up to help fight fatigue and improve visual assessment of the riding environment.

Larger cruiser models are at the other end of the spectrum, due to their heavier weight, longer wheelbases, steering head angles farther from vertical, and slower revving engines. They typically provide greater straight – line stability with more steering effort required for directional changes.

Safety tip: Consider the turning radius for slow. tight turns and U – turns.

Giving you an extra free tip here. Learning how to feather your clutch on any bike you will then be able to do any slow tight turn with ease.

Comfort tip: You might need time to get accustomed to the leaned – back, feet forward, arms – raised position.

Adventure – type bikes are fairly close to their standard/naked cousins in terms of riding style, but with your knees more forward and your mid – section closer to the fuel tank. This position brings your elbows up for quicker control and helps when transferring weight to the footrests in counter – weighted turns in the dirt or on tight roads.

Bottom line: Take your time to become familiar with a different bike. You want your control operation to be solid so you and your bike can bond for a safe, comfortable time together.

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain

September 22, 2015

Busy Summer

It has been a real busy summer for me with our chapter and with out with outreach.

We have been busy riding to many different places and events here in NE Ohio to ASR events and non ASR events. I didn’t post last month in the newsletter ok I am hearing those cheers LOL. So glad many more members took the time to write last month. So please keep it up so I don’t bore everyone with my newsletter post. Because you all know I could fill up a full magazine with my on and on articles hint hint LOL.

Ok all start with back in July we held our 6th Annual Biker Sunday in Memory of Michael T Theodore JR. What a huge success we started of the weekend with our meet & greet on Friday. Then on Saturday was our outreach ride. Once again it was all worth it because we had someone show up on Sunday do to Saturdays outreach. On Sunday was our Biker Sunday with the Michael T Theodore JR. pavilion dedecation service and food followed by a ride. We had one person get baptized praise God. Thank you to all ASR members who joined us on our special day. We were able to raise our funds for motorcycles for missionaries. I am working on something different for next year.

The ASR National Rally what can I say. It is always a wonderful time of fellowship,riding and great church service. Just an awesome time I am glad I got to meet a lot of new members.

On to Rally On the River in Ironton, Ohio. I love riding to this event to help out Bro Curley and the Ashland, KY chapter with outreach. I tired to get as many Ohio members to ride down but seemed that weekend everyone had something going on. So I got a hold of some members from a church that I had went there to try to recruit members. Thought what better way for them to find out what ASR is about. I was happy when two of them said yes they would like to ride down with me. They got a first hand view of seeing what we do hopefully in time they will send in their ASR applications.

I have to share this with all of you because it made my day and shows you that outreach works and makes a huge impact. A few days after the Ironton rally I rode over to my Harley shop to spend one of my gift cards. As I was walking around I noticed a guy with this years Ironton event shirt on. No way so me being well me. I had to walk over to him and talk to him. I asked him if he went to the rally or if someone bought the shirt for him. He said he rode down on Saturday. I said no way so did I. I then turned around and said did you see us showing him my ASR patch on my vest. He said yes I saw you guys praying in a group. I then asked him did he come over to us. He then pulls out of his wallet a card and he gave it to me to look at. Thank you bro Curley it was your card he had in his wallet. In the course of the day Bro Curley stopped to talk to this man. He goes on to tell me That this nice gentleman pointing to the card asked him to a church service but he told bro Curley he was heading back home. Praise God the man did take that card though. This made my day as I talked to him in the HD shop for about 45 minutes. We exchanged numbers I invited him to church which he has not come yet. But will keep following up with that. I asked him to join our chapter on a lunch ride coming up in October.

September I rode down to Pikeville, KY for their Biker Sunday what an amazing time in service we had I might have the numbers wrong but I think there was 3 people receive the holy ghost and 3 people baptized and one person got renewed praise God. Bro Curley was the guest speaker and he gave us a wonderful word form the Lord. Thank you Bro West and your church what a wonderful time. Looking forward to next years event.

No sooner I get home we have to get ready for the huge bike event here up on Lake Erie. Thunder on the Strip at Geneva on the lake. This is a huge biker town right on the shores of lake Erie. This year the city of Geneva wanted to try something new and add another event to the huge bike event to get even more people to come to Geneva and Geneva on the lake instead of just bikers. The City and organizers for another festival called my pastor and asked if we would be a sponsor a silent sponsor. The Festival which is called Bacon & Beer Festival. Yes I know what your thinking and saying. But outreach is outreach correct. The plan was to set up an ASR Booth and church booth at this festival. But the city decided to wait till next year in 2016 to add this. My guess is they proboly didn’t have enough vendors in such a short time. When time gets closer I will ask all Ohio members to help join us at this event.

Since that festival was a no we headed up to Thunder On the Strip for the weekend. This year the weather was not nice to us up on the lake. It was cold windy and off and on rain all weekend. We stopped by the Bikers for Christ booth and hung out with them for a while. Really just to stay dry LOL Did I say that out loud. Their group just stayed in the tent at the booth and never walked around. I’m sorry but If your waiting for people to come to you your going have a long wait. Get up and go to them. But I give them credit they were there with a booth.

With the weather not nice the attendance was way down usually the event sees well over 3,000 bikers this year about 1,000. Looking forward to next years Thunder on the strip with the bacon & beer festival.

October is here and our chapter has two more dinner/lunch rides and there are two events that I just added that I would like to go to. Guess its good to be busy.

Hope everyone had a great summer and are still enjoying getting on your bikes and getting a chance to ride somewhere.

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain

y In Memory of Michael T Theodore Jr 003

September 22, 2015

HOW TO TOW ANOTHER MOTORCYCLE SAFELY

Have you ever had your Motorcycle break down while you were out on a ride by yourself or riding with your friends? Or maybe you just once ran out of gas a couple of miles before a fuel stop? Well if you carry a tow rope with you on your bike there will be no more walking the bike or sitting on the side of the road waiting on someone.

First, get 12 feet to 20 feet (4 to 6 m) of rope, tie-downs hooked together, a bit of fence wire or phone cable, or best of all, a one inch (2.5 cm) wide flat nylon strap. I prefer the nylon strap.

One method in towing a bike will keep the towline down low. On the lead bike, wrap the line once around the right foot peg (if the drive chain/belt is on the left). The rider firmly holds the line in place with his foot. The rider being towed does the same thing using the opposite foot peg. If the tow goes wrong, either rider can easily let go.

Another method starts with the line tied to the frame of the lead bike as high as possible. Alternately, make a “Y” in the end of the line and tie each end to a foot peg; the fork should rest in the center of the seat above. The end leads back to the trailing bike, and goes under the headlight, on the centerline of the bike. The loose end wraps around the handlebar once or twice, and is held by the left (clutch) hand. The towing rider operates the front brake normally, and if he needs to get free, he can simply let go.

Either way, the more experienced rider should be on the trailing bike, and should keep all the slack out of the line; because the trailing rider can easily run over a slack line and get it caught up in the front wheel if you do not keep the slack out of the line. All braking should be done by the trailing rider, and the lead rider should keep the speed down.

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain