To Plug Or Not To Plug A Tire

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In October I ran over my second Nail of the riding season Of course both nails I ran over were on brand new tires of under 2,000 miles nice. So I thought why not post this.

Flats happen. But how to repair punctures in tubeless tires—and even if they should be repaired—is a tricky subject. It all depends on whom you ask. The truth is riders fix flats all the time.  Do you plug it or do you buy a new tire? You could be plugging away indiscriminately with limited knowledge of the proper repair process or the risks associated with riding on a repaired tire. We  will explore the issue from several angles so you can make a more informed decision if you “pick up a nail” on the road.

One of the reasons a concise answer on plugging punctures is so elusive is because each tire manufacturer, which every tire-plug manufacturer will ultimately defer to if pressed on the subject, has its own take on the topic.

Continental, Michelin, Pirelli position on dealing with punctures is clear as day: Don’t even bother carrying a plug kit. “Call a tow truck,” is how one VP of marketing replied when asked what to do when you get a flat. These tire manufacturers assert that there are too many variables involved, from the puncture to the repair, and that there is simply too much at risk in terms of rider safety and liability to condone it, even in an emergency. Most dealerships and repair shops share this sentiment. I agree on this. I have a very good friend who owns a motorcycle dealership and will not plug a tire period. Also My own Harley dealership will not plug a tire do to safety issues.  Of course other dealerships want your money and disregard  the safety factor. Ok with that said.

Fair enough. After all, your tires are the only part of your motorcycle that connects it to the road, and a rapid deflation resulting from an improper repair or unseen internal damage could cause a lot more parts of your motorcycle to make contact with the road. Even so, a canned “no” is not what riders want to hear when they just got a flat on a nearly new, $250 tire. Um I got my second nail in a new tire this summer. What are those odds two in one summer.

Ok other brands, specifically Avon, Bridgestone, Dunlop, and Metzeler, offer an opinion that’s more in line with what consumers would hope to hear: Yes, punctures can be plugged in an emergency situation, and a repair that both fills the wound (plug) and seals the damage (patch) that is installed by a professional can even be considered permanent if specific criteria are met.

While Avon, Bridgestone, Dunlop, Metzeler, and the RMA (the Rubber Manufacturer’s Association, the nation’s preeminent voice on the topic of tires) all agree that a combined plug/patch applied from the inside of the tire is the only acceptable permanent repair, each group has its own requirements and restrictions. Here are a few areas they all agree on.

Everyone who says that you can plug a tire (including tire-plug makers) agree that the repairable area is limited to the crown of the tire. “You cannot plug a sidewall because it doesn’t have the structure to hold the plug”. Not even the entire treaded area is fair game, since “closer to the sides the carcass flexes too much and the seal won’t take. The repair has to be within the belt package, which limits the repairable area to the center 50 percent of the tire. There must also be at least 1/32 inch (0.8mm) of tread remaining on the tire. Any less and the tire could flex too much to retain the repair.

The size and shape of the damage is another important factor. Tears or oblong punctures cannot be permanently repaired, and opinions on the size of round holes that can acceptably be repaired run the gamut from 3 mm (Avon) to 6.8mm (Dunlop). Assuming the puncture isn’t too big (research suggests that 90 percent of all punctures are the size of a 16-penny nail [4.1mm] or smaller) and was made in the right area, the tire will still need to be dismounted for inspection and have the appropriate plug/patch installed.

Beyond those very basic guidelines, opinions begin to diverge. As an example, Avon prohibits tires with “wound on” belting or tires with a speed rating higher than V (up to 149 mph) from being repaired, while Bridgestone contends that any repaired tire forfeits its speed rating and is limited to 80 mph. Dunlop says that any tire that’s previously seen a liquid sealant is excluded from repair, while Metzeler simply defers to “your country’s regulations” to determine if repair is legal in the first place (in America it is). When it comes down to it, if you really want to know the specifics for your tires, your best bet is to contact the company embossed on the sidewall. Basically this is my own opinion here that all tire manufactures will sell you their tire but will not honor the warranty if you put a plug in it.

As stated, every manufacturer that permits permanent repairs says that an off-the-rim inspection is mandatory. Why? Since tubeless tires are unlikely to bleed all of their pressure at once when punctured, it’s possible for the rider to be unaware of a leak and cruise along on a deflating tire. This isn’t uncommon and leads to the possibility of internal tire damage, either from overheating or from the puncturing object gouging the tire’s inner surface after deflation has occurred. My opinion here is I do believe that with the tire heating up then cooling then heating up again causes the plug to work its way a little lose.

Additionally, escaping air can creep between the plies of the tire, encouraging tread separation. This scenario is of particular concern on steel-belted tires (the majority of motorcycle tires on the road today are steel belted) since any ingress of moisture can cause the steel strands to rust and eventually fail.

Any damage to the structure of the tire could lead to a catastrophic failure, and a thorough inspection of both surfaces of the tire is the best way to nip a catastrophe in the bud—that, or just replace the tire, which is always the first recommendation, regardless of who you ask.

Great, but what if you can’t replace the tire or dismount it for inspection and repair because, say, you’re in the middle of nowhere with no cell service and a descending sun? “If you need to get off the side of the road, you do what you have to do to get to a safer location.”

That’s where the myriad aftermarket tire-plug kits come into play. Common options include the ubiquitous rubber-impregnated ropes, Stop & Go’s mushroom plugs, Dynaplugs’ brass-tipped ropes, Gryyps’ screw-in “cargols,” and liquid products from Slime and Ride On. Each product has its own purported benefits, whether it be ease of use or affordability, but the underlying idea is that they’re all emergency repairs. Out of all the options, mushroom-style plugs like those sold by Stop & Go are the only form of temporary repair endorsed by manufacturers, namely Avon and Metzeler. And don’t forget that once you plug the tire, you’ll still need to inflate it.

If you began reading this piece with a firm stance on tire repair and now feel like you’re standing on shaky ground, I apologize.  As I said in the beginning of this post, how you should go about dealing with a flat really depends on who you ask. And, ultimately, the only person left to ask is yourself. Hopefully after reading this you are better equipped to make your own decision. As you know I’m all about safety and I do not plug a motorcycle tire. This is all up to you.

It used to be a solid no,“But opinions have evolved.” The original cause for concern was tire flex, which could cause the tube to overheat and rupture. However, today’s tubeless radials are more rigid and unlikely to cause issues when used with an appropriate-size inner tube as an emergency repair, but other manufacturers, including Bridgestone and Metzeler, still prohibit it.

A tube may serve as an acceptable way to deal with a punctured tire, but if you are considering carrying a tube (and the tools needed to remove the wheel and tire), why not just carry the appropriate patch/plug and perform a more reliable, potentially permanent repair?

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AIRING UP

Because Sometimes You Want More Pressure In Your Life

There are numerous ways to plug a punctured tubeless tire and lots of methods to re-inflate it too. For side-of-the-road repairs, the three most common sources of pressure are CO 2 cartridges, compact electric compressors, and old-fashioned hand pumps.

A compressor that runs off your bike’s battery offers unlimited air supply anytime you need it, but these devices can be bulky and expensive. Manual pumps like those used for bicycles (high-volume pumps designed for mountain-bike tires are the way to go here) also offer unlimited fill-ups, but they also require a tremendous amount of elbow grease!

CO 2 cartridges are another popular option. They’re compact and easy to use, but it takes a lot of them to fill a tire (six 12-gram canisters will inflate a 180/55-17 tire to about 20 psi according to tests), and you can only use them once. When discharging CO 2, keep in mind that the gas exiting the canister is extremely cold (about -50 Fahrenheit), so protect your hands and remember that the tire pressure will rise quite a bit as the gas warms to ambient temperature; there’s no need to inflate to final pressure with the canisters.

Another option for airing up in an emergency is a parasitic hose with two clamp-on female ends. This device isn’t commercially available but should prove easy to assemble at home and will allow you to draw pressure from another vehicle’s tire in an emergency.

So do you Plug your tire or Not.

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain

 

Top 10 Motorcycle Maintenance Fails

 

1. Not Maintaining Proper Tire Pressure

Motorcycles, cars, trucks, you name it—there are millions of vehicles out on the road with under-inflated tires, which reduces gas mileage and makes the tires run hot, shortening their life span. (You can also over-inflate tires, but it’s less common.) Some people check their tire pressure before every ride—not a bad idea, especially if you’re on a multi-day tour—but do it at least once a week or at every fill-up. Check your tires when cold, use your own tire gauge (keep one in your toolkit or saddlebag) and follow inflation guidelines printed on the VIN plate on your bike or in the owner’s manual. When checking tire pressure, also inspect for foreign objects that may be stuck in your tires and for signs of wear or other damage.

2. Wasting Money on Premium Fuel When Your Bike Doesn’t Need It

Your bike’s owner’s manual  or a sticker on the fuel tank will tell you the minimum octane fuel (PON, or pump octane number) that your motorcycle requires. Many of today’s motorcycles require premium fuel (typically 90 PON or higher), but some modern motorcycles and many older ones require only regular fuel (usually 86 or 87 PON). Running lower-than-recommended octane fuel is very bad; it can cause detonation (knocking) and potentially damage the engine. Running higher-than-recommended octane fuel wastes money at the pump (don’t fall for the gasoline companies’ marketing about high-octane fuel being “better”; it won’t boost performance and the EPA requires all fuel grades to have engine-cleaning detergent additives), and it can reduce gas mileage.

3. Not Regularly Checking and Changing the Oil

All internal combustion engines have reciprocating metal parts that require proper lubrication to reduce friction and heat. Some engines, especially older ones with worn seals, gaskets and piston rings, will consume oil, either by burning it up in the combustion chamber or simply leaking out. Get in the habit of checking your oil level—some motorcycles have sight glasses, others have dipsticks—every time you fill up the gas tank. And refer to your owner’s manual for the recommended oil change interval (in miles and/or months). Oil filters collect dirt, debris and metal particles, so make sure to install a new oil filter when you change the oil

4. Forgetting to Clean, Lube and Adjust the Chain

If your motorcycle has chain final drive, neglecting to clean, lubricate and adjust the chain is asking for trouble. (Drive belts don’t need to be lubricated, but they should be regularly inspected for wear and proper adjustment.) If you have an older bike it may have a non-sealed chain (which requires more care and maintenance), but most contemporary motorcycles have O-ring chains, which have small rubber O-rings between the link plates and rollers that help keep lube in and dirt out. Most owner’s manuals recommend lubricating the drive chain every 400-500 miles, but if you ride in wet or dirty conditions, you should lube the chain more often, perhaps every day. If possible, before adding lube, clean the chain with a non-wire brush and mild soap. Lubricate the chain after a ride, when the chain is warm, to help the lube penetrate the small spaces between the O-rings, plates and rollers, and use a dedicated motorcycle chain lube, such as Spectro Oils Z-Clean Chain Lube. With the bike in neutral and up on its centerstand or a rear-wheel paddock stand, spin the rear wheel forward and spray the lube on the top of the lower chain, just before it comes in contact with the rear sprocket. Wipe off any excess and spin the rear wheel a few more times to help the lube work its way in. Once the chain has been cleaned and lubed, check for proper chain tension, make any necessary adjustments and check the chain and sprockets for wear.

5. Not Using Fuel Stabilizer or Draining the Carbs During Short-Term Storage

Those of you with fuel-injected bikes, count yourselves lucky and move on. But if your motorcycle has carburetors and it sits for more than a couple of weeks between rides (hello, winter!), it’s teeny-tiny jets and other parts can become clogged or gummed-up by old fuel that breaks down over time and creates sticky varnish. Regularly using a fuel stabilizer such as StarTron and draining the carburetor’s float bowl after a ride when the bike will be parked for a while (the easiest way is to turn the fuel off and let the bike run in neutral until it conks out) are the best ways to protect your carbureted fuel system against the scourge of today’s ethanol-blended gasoline.

6. Forgetting to Lube and Adjust the Throttle, Clutch and Brake Cables

The control cables that actuate the throttle, clutch and brakes are absolutely critical components that are often overlooked, a simple matter of “out of sight, out of mind.” A sticky cable that doesn’t move back and forth properly can be dangerous, and a broken cable can leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. According to Motion Pro, which makes a wide variety of motorcycle tools, cables and controls, motorcycle control cables should be lubricated and adjusted at least once per riding season and more frequently for dual-sport and off-road bikes that see much more wear and tear.

7. Not Using a Battery Maintenance Charger

Even if your bike is parked safely in the garage, over time its battery will self-discharge. Allowing the battery to discharge can lead to sulfation—the build-up of lead sulfate crystals—which can result in a loss of cranking power (your bike won’t start), longer charging times and, ultimately, shorter battery life. The best way to keep your motorcycle’s battery healthy is to use a smart maintenance charger such as a Deltran Battery Tender. It has “microprocessor controlled power electronic circuitry” which enables it to perform and control various charging functions, including battery testing, bulk charging and float/maintenance charging to keep the battery in optimal condition.

8. Not Checking and Changing the Final Drive Oil

Many touring riders love motorcycles with shaft final drive because of their cleanliness and low maintenance. Although heavier than chain final drive, shafties don’t fling chain lube onto the swingarm or rear fender and they don’t need to be adjusted or replaced like chains and sprockets. But the gears inside shaft drives are lubricated with oil that needs to be checked regularly (in case there are leaks or it has become contaminated) and changed according to the recommended service interval in the owner’s manual. Most riders go a long  interval to easily forget about or ignore Checking the final drive oil. The consequences can be very costly—replacing a damaged final drive is much more expensive than replacing a chain and sprockets.

9. Not Changing the Brake Fluid

This is another one that’s easy to overlook. Hydraulic brakes work extremely well, especially modern triple-disc systems with ABS, but for brakes to work properly the hydraulic fluid must be changed regularly. Glycol-ether (DOT 3, 4, and 5.1) brake fluids are hygroscopic, which means they absorb moisture, which contaminates the fluid over time. Most motorcycle owner’s manuals  recommend changing brake fluid every two years and replacing the brake hoses every four years. Sticking to these service intervals, as well as checking and replacing your brake pads as needed, are critical for the safe and optimal operation of your motorcycle.

10. Not Reading the Owner’s Manual

There are a lot of references to this list because your motorcycle owner’s manual is an important source of maintenance information. Very few people read their owner’s manual cover-to-cover, but it’s a good idea to at least flip through it and become familiar with its contents. Most owner’s manuals have sections on safety, general information, specifications, routine maintenance/adjustment, troubleshooting, warranty information and a maintenance/service log. Your owner’s manual contains information about proper tire pressure, fuel type, checking and changing oil, load capacity, suspension settings and much more. If possible, keep your owner’s manual on your bike (under the seat or in a saddlebag), sealed in a durable plastic bag. Buying the service manual for your particular model is also a good idea; keep it in your garage with your tools for handy reference.
Michael Theodore
National Road Captain

Ready Or Not Here Comes That Car.

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Will the car pull out and try to pass the line of bikes? How far will the driver make it before the passing zone runs out? Which riders will he try to squeeze between when it does?

It’s easy to become complacent when riding behind other riders. There doesn’t seem to be the same sense of urgency to actively scan the road or look to the mirrors as when we ride solo. Instead, while riding in a group, eyes tend to fixate on bikes ahead, and when we slip into “follow” mode, it’s easy to settle in, let down our guard and let others lead. That’s about the time, at the first hint of a passing zone or straightaway, an impatient driver from behind swoops out and passes, surprising the daylights out of us. That effect repeats one after another as the car blasts by each unsuspecting rider in line. It gets particularly interesting when the overtaking driver suddenly realizes he can’t pass all of the riders before the passing zone ends.

How can we minimize risk in these scenarios? By taking an active role and riding our own ride, even when following others. Make the dashed lines of every passing zone a mental trigger to consult the left mirror. Always know if there is a driver behind you. Pick up on aggressive behavior; if a vehicle approaches quickly or tailgates, expect them to abruptly overtake at the first opportunity as your first defense. When riding curves, make a point to check mirrors as you slow and at the moment the road straightens again, and look for that driver to pop out and pass. Is your group about to make a left turn? A mirror and head check could save your life if that driver pulls out to pass just as you all begin to exit left. Expect them, look for them and plan for them. Because, whether you’re ready or not, here they come!

Michael Theodore
National Road Captain

 

Idle Threat Stayin’ Safe

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Sitting Idly by waiting for the light to change may be revving up your risk.
Back in the days riders simply were not being struck from behind like they are today. We live in the era of Total distracting driving. The cell phone the texting. Now being hit from behind by a distracted driver is a growing concern for motorcyclist… and a compelling reason to find ways to avoid being a sitting target.
Today drivers are not recognizing traffic slowing ahead of them until it’s too late. Bad new when it’s you that’s next in line ahead. In addition to increasing your sight to the other driver behind you is having Hi -Viz clothing or Helmet. Brake light flashers. Or my number one tip while stopped. I always keep my foot on the rear brake pedal. Having that bright red on the entire time while stopped is key.
Tip when coming up to a traffic light or stop sign ahead. Slow gradually, When you anticipate a changing traffic light or see a stop sign ahead, take your time getting there. Slow gradually instead of carrying speed to the intersection, You’ll have a better chance of getting that distracted driver to slow down with you rather than relying on them to suddenly react to you. That way you will also spend less time actually stopped and vulnerable.Once you do come to a standstill, maintain a “tactical ready” position, keeping the bike in gear, you should be in 1st gear, your hands on the controls and an eye always on your mirror. Also avoid stopping at the rear bumper of the car ahead of you. Instead, leave a space cushion that allows you to have a distinct escape if necessary.
As that old saying goes, “Don’t just sit there,Do something!”
Be aware of the Idle threat of sitting in traffic, be ready with a plan and be poised to take action should the driver behind fail to slow.
Michael Theodore
National Road Captain

 

TAR SNAKES

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This might be a repeat for some members but we have allot of new members now and I posted this in our old website a few years ago. I bring this up while reading a new members blog last month. So here you guys go.

TAR SNAKES

You’ve seen tar snakes out on the road countless times, but probably never paid too much attention to them in your car. But when riding your motorcycle, it’s a whole different story. With only two tiny patches of rubber keeping you upright on a bike, you have to be a lot more wary about road surface imperfections, and tar snakes are among the most sinister ones you’ll find.

What are Tar Snakes?

As roads age, they develop cracks in the surface. As the road gets abused and traffic and weather take their toll, those cracks get bigger and bigger, and cause the road surface to degrade quickly. As a temporary fix, road crews will fill the cracks with sealant – usually a soft, tar-based substance – to fill the cracks and keep them from expanding. The result? A road covered in random, windy black lines that resemble snakes; hence the term, “tar snakes.”

Why Are Tar Snakes a Hazard to Motorcyclists?

Asphalt sealer, or tar snakes, are hazardous to riders because they can compromise your traction in three ways:

  • They have a very different texture than asphalt, and your tires will respond differently to them than to the road
  • They create a bumpy road surface that can unsettle your suspension
  • They can become softer or slicker in hot weather, or when wet

Tar snakes are generally a lot softer than asphalt, so they can easily get foreign objects embedded into them and they can even come dislodged and stick to your tires! Again, none of this would be an issue in a four-wheeled vehicle (which is why they are used), but on a motorcycle, they pose a unique hazard.

What Will Happen If You Hit A Tar Snake?

If you’ve ever ridden over painted lines in the roadway, you may have noticed a change in traction from your tires; this is because paint lines tend to be more slippery than asphalt, and should be avoided.

Tar snakes are similar, but a lot more tricky; because unlike paint lines, you never know where they will be! They are applied on the road wherever damage occurs, so you can hit a patch of them very unexpectedly, and some of these patches can be pretty nasty.

Most of the time, when you ride over tar snakes, you won’t notice much more than a bumpy road. The trouble starts when you’re leaned over; hitting a tar snake can cause you to lose traction momentarily, causing your bike to slide.

Often, you’ll regain traction quickly and won’t experience more than a “puckering moment,” but in a worst-case scenario, you can go down. This has happened to many riders – even motorcycle cops in several cases across the country.

So what do you do when you encounter these dangerous snakes?

How to Handle Tar Snakes on your Motorcycle

Remember, tar snakes are only applied to roads that are damaged, so you’re already riding on a road surface that’s less than ideal. The tar snakes on the road make the surface better for most vehicles, but worse for us riders, so you have to be doubly cautious when riding over them. Here are a few steps you can take to deal with them:

Always scan the road surface while riding to look for them.
  • Mentally, approach the tar snakes as you would any obstacle
    • Be aware of the danger yet remain flexible mentally; be open to new possibilities
    • Accept that the motorcycle may move around beneath you and that traction is less than perfect
    • Visualize a positive outcome
  • Physically, approach the tar snakes as you would any obstacle
    • Reduce speed
    • Approach the tar snakes at 90 degrees where possible, no less than 45 degrees preferably
    • Remain loose on the motorcycle; tightening up or establishing a “death grip” on the motorcycle will only create issues
    • Operate the throttle or brakes in a gradual, slow, and precise fashion
Also, remember that tar snakes respond to changes in weather very differently than normal road surfaces do. In hot weather they can “melt” and become more soft and sticky, and when wet, they can be a lot slicker than asphalt.

Overall, tar snakes are hazardous to motorcycles because they are simply not designed with us riders in mind. Transportation departments and road crews slap them all over aging roads across the country because they are perfectly acceptable road repairs for those in four-wheeled vehicles – the handful of us that ride on two.Just know to look out for them, be prepared, and keep the rubber side down…where it belongs!

Michael Theodore
National Road Captain

July 17 7th Annual Biker Sunday In Memory of Michael T. Theodore JR

2016 Biker Sunday event shirt

July 17 7th Annual Biker Sunday In Memory of Michael T. Theodore JR
Our 7th Annual Biker Sunday is right around the corner and we are getting very excited on what God has in order for us. We changed this years event up some still geared on outreach. This years guest speaker will be Brother Rick Perry from New Haven Connecticut. looking forward to hearing brother Perry.  Friday night is Meet & Great night at the Holiday Inn Express at 6 PM. Saturday Kickstands up at 9 AM For a nice ride and a little outreach there will be stops along the way as we make our way to a big Bike event on the shores of Lake Eire in Erie, Pa. We will then do a dinner stop on our ride back to the hotel. In the evening we are opening our home to everyone for some relaxing fellowship at the Theodore house. Sunday morning we will ride up to the church Pentecostal Community Church in Jefferson, Ohio at 9 AM Sharp. Service starts at 10 AM. There will be a dinner after service small cost of $10 for the dinner all the proceeds will go towards Motorcycles for Missionaries. Also we are selling event shirts cost is $20 for sm to xxl and $25 for anything larger. We are looking forward to spending time with our ASR family hope you can join  us as we keep our son’s memory alive through our biker Sunday. 
If anyone needs more information you can Call me or email me.
Michael Theodore 

National Road Captain
Blueknight1703@aol.com
330-720-0440
Host hotel is the Holiday Inn Express
135 Highland Terrace Blvd., Warren, OH

What’s Mine is Yours Safely riding unmarked back roads

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What’s Mine is Yours Safely riding unmarked back roads
IF YOUR LIKE ME, your favorite roads are the lesser-known gems that wind through the back country,  away from traffic and civilization. While those wonderful rural roads can offer up a relaxing ride, they can also present their own set of threats, especially the “lane-and-a-half” variety with no lane markings. On these stretches, “sharing the road” can suddenly mean sharing the same space. Quiet back roads are attractive because we expect them to have little or no traffic. But keep in mind that local drivers have that same expectation. Driving these roads daily, they rarely encounter other vehicles on a typical drive. As a result, they’re often inclined to use more of the road, especially on curves .Without a painted line to define lanes, what’s ours is often claimed as theirs, creating a no man’s land in the middle portion of an already narrow roadway.
The typical cornering strategy calls us to establish an outside line to improve the view around a bend. But an unmarked, narrow back road with limited sight distance calls for a compromise. Think of your lane as less than your half of the pavement. For a right hand bend, establish a position that doesn’t extend wider then the middle of your lane in anticipation of an on coming vehicle partly on your side of the road. Why not just move toward the inside of the lane? Because vehicles tend to drop wheels off the inside edge, kicking dirt, gravel and other debris onto the adjacent road surface. For a left hand bend, position yourself toward the outside of the curve, just in case that wide tractor or truck with a trailer appears suddenly and is taking a wide approach that includes part of your lane. Just Remember, when riding the back country roads. When there are no road markings, what’s mine is your, And theirs.
Keep it safe enjoy your ride
Michael Theodore
National Road Captain

1st Annual New Straitsville, Ohio Biker Sunday June 12,2016

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1st Annual New Straitsville, Ohio Biker Sunday
June 12,2016

Looking forward to this first biker Sunday and a  mighty move of God. Looking forward to the ASR fellowship. Pastor David Showalter  from Omaha Nebraska is the guest speaker. Looking forward to what God has for southern Ohio.  Hope to see you in New Straitsville, Ohio. Southern Ohio has some great motorcycle roads to ride.

The Dirt on Riding Un Paved Roads.

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The Dirt on Riding Un paved Roads.
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IT’S THE END OF THE ROAD for many. But it’s just the beginning for those who are comfortable and confident when the pavement ends and gravel or hard packed dirt begins. Why is it we get so uptight when things get loose underfoot (or under tire, as it were)? Because things feel a little weird and unfamiliar on dirt. The motorcycle moves around more beneath us on unpaved surfaces, the front wheel seems to wander and the handlebars come alive in our sweaty palms. In reality, while things feel loose, there is typically more traction on hard packed dirt than riders expect. All of that movement the machine is doing? It’s just the bike’s natural way of finding a suitable path forward. That said, there are a few techniques unique to riding unpaved roads vs a hard, smooth road surface.
Stay lose. Avoid fighting the bike’s surface and, instead loosen your grip and let the motorcycle find its way. Remember the bike doesn’t want to fall any more than you do; it wants to keep moving ahead and stay upright. Keep your eyes up, looking well ahead and the bike will follow. Shift your weight from your seat to your feet. With arches on the pegs (or boots flat on the floorboards) and knees against the tank, steer with your lower body and less with your hands. Unlike riding on pavement, you’ll want to keep your body upright, allowing the bike to lean beneath you in corners to maximize traction. While all of this may feel a bit awkward at first, you’ll soon become more comfortable and more confident as you discover just how well even a large touring motorcycle can navigate dry, unpaved surfaces. And the end of the pavement will be just the beginning of your next riding adventure.
Michael Theodore
National Road Captain

6 Riding Tips for Dealing With Tailgaters

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You can not change some drivers’ attitudes, but you can protect yourself. Here’s how.

Tailgaters are not nice. Even though these intruders can make the hair on the back of your neck rise, your main concern needs to be whether the tailgater can stop short of rear-ending you if you need to stop quickly. Trying to change a tailgater’s behavior is about as likely as convincing Donald Trump to endorse Bernie Sanders for president. Any attempts to do so will only distract you from other hazards and could trigger deadly road rage. Instead, I present to you a few tips for minimizing the risk of being the recipient of a Hood Ornament.
1. Check your speed. If people regularly tailgate you then maybe you are not maintaining the expected speed of surrounding traffic. While you should avoid riding faster than you are comfortable, riding too slowly could increase the risk of being tailgated if traffic is moving significantly faster than you are. If this is the case, you may need to find an alternative route where the pace is more to your liking.
2. Let them by. If it becomes apparent that the driver is not going to back off, then find a safe place to pull over. This is often easier said than done, but why let a tailgater ruin your ride if you can let them pass? Be sure to signal early and slow gradually. Then watch as they zoom by to tailgate the next vehicle ahead.
3. Increase your following distance. A common response to a tailgater is to speed up to try and get away from the tailgater’s bumper. But, this usually results in the tailgater also increasing speed. Instead, slow down. No, not to mess with the tailgater to get them mad, but to gain a space cushion ahead of you. This allows you (and the tailgater) ample time and space to slow if necessary. A minimum of 3 seconds should do the trick.
4. Communicate intentions early. Most motorcycle brake lights do not command a lot of visual attention. But you can increase its effectiveness by flashing it two or three times before actually reducing speed. Also, be sure to activate turn signals at least 4 seconds before slowing to give drivers behind you plenty of notice.
5. Use smart lane positioning. To prevent a close call from a tailgater it’s important to choose a lane position that allows you the best angle of view past the vehicle ahead so you can spot problems early and slow gradually. When stopping at a traffic light or stop sign, keep an eye on your mirrors and flash your brake light. Also, place yourself in the right or left-hand portion of your lane to give the driver behind an escape if he can not stop in time.
6. Stay cool. This may be the most crucial. Even though tailgaters can get under our skin, smart riders do not let this bad behavior affect their judgment. Instead, they initiate strategies that prevent these morons from decreasing safety and enjoyment.
Michael Theodore
National Road Captain