common mistakes riders make

Failing to use defensive driving techniques

While defensive driving is important for all  riders in particular, should be aware of their surroundings and expect the worse. Don’t assume other drivers will yield to you and always be aware of traffic patterns. Anticipate problems and road hazards so you can slow down before reaching the problem.

Lacking braking and cornering skills

While motorcycles are lighter and more agile than passenger cars, there is also a learning curve associated with operating a motorcycle. Be especially alert when you are near intersections because approximately 50 percent of motorcycle-vehicle collisions occur there.

Selecting a motorcycle that’s not a good fit

While a large motorcycle with immense power may be appealing, you should buy a motorcycle that you can handle safely. Large motorcycles are heavy and you must be strong enough to push it or pick it up when you fall over. You should also consider the functionality of your bike.

Forgetting about the limitations of a motorcycle

Always remember to familiarize yourself with the owner’s manual and attend a motorcycle training course. A professional class can provide you with the knowledge and skills you may not learn when your friend teaches you how to ride.

Being inconsiderate

Avoid weaving in and out of stalled traffic and riding on shoulders. Being inconsiderate can aggravate other drivers and cause them to react negatively, putting both of you at risk.

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain

Just how fresh is that green light?

As we all know (or should), intersections are the leading spots for crashes involving motorcycles and other vehicles. Fortunately, traffic at busier intersections tends to be managed by automated traffic signals. the presence of those signals should be enough to eliminate incidents. In reality they do not. Why? Because drivers (and some riders) tend to push limits at the critical transition time when lights change. Drivers anticipate green lights,anxiously jumping into the intersection prematurely. Simultaneously, impatient drivers accelerate through red lights to avoid sitting through another cycle. That makes the transitioning traffic light a truly dangerous proposition for any motorcyclist.

Riders commonly carry speed up to an intersection especially if the traffic light ahead shines green. But if that light has been green the entire time it’s been in view, one can’t know how long it has been green. More important, we can’t know if it is about to change. As riders, a good rule of thumb (or throttle hand) is to assume that if the light has been green the whole time it’s been in view, we should consider it to be a “stale” green that is old enough to turn yellow by the time we arrive. On your Approach you should then check your mirrors (looking for that driver behind who might be determined to make it through the intersection with or without you), and select a speed that would allow you to calmly, smoothly and safely stop before the light potentially turns to red. Look for vehicles waiting at the light to the right or left, as well as in an opposing left – turn lane; they will surely trigger a stale green to change to red even sooner. Anticipating the stale green gives us fresh options to stay in control at intersections.

Michael Theodore

Regardless of the Lead Bike’s signals, a rider is responsible for his or her own safety at all times. Ride Your Own Ride.

Once all members of the group are together, the group will take up a staggered formation and will stay in it most of the time during the ride, unless the Lead Bike signals for a change or the need for a change is obvious. Reasons for changing out of a staggered formation could be a passing situation or poor road surface (single file), dog or other animal charging the group (split the group), or coming up to a traffic signal (two abreast while waiting for a light).

Changing Lanes

When a group of motorcycles is changing lanes, many safety considerations come into play. Should every rider move into the adjacent lane at the same time? If not, should the Lead Bike go first, or should the sweeper move first to “secure the lane”? When the sweeper radios to the group or motions to the group that the lane is secured, is it really? What if another vehicle sees a gap in traffic and tries to cut into the group? If part of the group gets separated from the other riders, should everyone change relative positions (tracks) so that the new Lead Bike is now riding in the left track? The recommended procedure for a group lane change maneuver depends on how the surrounding traffic is moving at the time. The goal for the bike which moves first is to create a gap into which the other bikes can fit.

Regardless of what other riders in the group are doing, each rider must personally check to see that the new lane is clear of traffic before entering it.

Changing Lanes as a Group

There is virtually no time (absent an emergency) when a group of riders should all move at the same time into a different lane, in regular traffic conditions. The wide gap required for a whole group to move is difficult to find in heavy traffic, and if it exists, it will be an invitation for other drivers to jump into it, perhaps while the group might be moving. Additionally, such a maneuver could be interpreted as “parading”, which may arguably not be covered under some insurance policies.

Changing Lanes into Slower-Moving Traffic

In most jurisdictions traffic laws prescribe that, on a road in which there are two lanes of traffic moving in the same direction, the lane on the right will be the slower lane. If a group of motorcyclists is going to move into the slower lane from the faster one, the first bike in a group which moves is responsible for creating a gap into which all the following bikes can fit. This is accomplished by maintaining a constant speed in order to enlarge the gap after the first bike moves. Each bike moving in succession should also be aware of this dynamic. Thus, the group moves from first to last. (An exception is the sweeper, which may move on its own for reasons explained later.)

The first bike to move under these conditions will be the Lead Bike. The maneuver is accomplished in this way: the Lead Bike signals for the lane change and announces to the group via CB and/or hand signals that the group is moving to the right, front to back. Then, after checking by actually turning the head to see that the new lane is cleared and looking in his mirror for traffic sufficient for one bike to safely enter it, the Lead Bike moves across the tracks of the current lane, taking up a position in the left track of the new lane where the Lead Bike usually rides. By maintaining the maximum speed which the traffic in that lane will allow, the Lead Bike creates a gap into which the next bike in the group can insert, moving into the right track there. Each succeeding bike follows this pattern: signal right, move right in your own lane, head-check, enter new lane, maintain speed to create gap, and take up regular position (left or right track) in the new lane.

The sweeper in this pattern is normally the last to enter the new lane, unless “closing the door” was possible. As the bikes move quickly and re-form their group, it is rare that a four-wheeler will move up into the gap in the new lane. If a cage moves into the gap, the next bike to move must tuck in behind it and wait for the group ahead to slow up, encouraging the cage to pass. When the cage passes the slower forward group, the whole group can re-form into a normal riding configuration.

Breaking Up is Hard To Do

If a lane change results in the group’s changing formation — the bike which was unable to move into the new lane slows down and becomes for a time the Lead Bike for the left lane, while the rest of group moves ahead in the slower lane — or, the bike which was unable to move right is forced to PASS the slower group — should the new Lead Bike take the left forward track?

Ordinarily, no. Only if the group breaks into two obvious sub-groups and becomes separated for a substantial period of time should the “new Lead Bike” move into a new track to the left, if that has not been that rider’s normal position. Otherwise, this will be only a temporary break in formation, and the riders will quickly enter the new lane and re-form as usual behind the Lead Bike, in the positions they had originally.

Why doesn’t the “new Lead Bike” change tracks? Because during any period in which the bikes are changing tracks, the spacing between them is cut in half, drastically reducing the reaction time and space available to the rider in case the bike directly ahead of him becomes a problem. In a lane change, this period is fairly short. If the “new Lead Bike” shifts position and all the bikes following attempt to adapt to the new configuration by changing to a different track, they will then have to change back when the original group re-forms. There is no real reason to put the riders in additional jeopardy this way in order to have the “correct” formation, just for short periods.

Forcing all the bikes in the rest of the group to change track position is especially hazardous in the case of a new group rider who has become accustomed to riding in the protected “slot” as opposed to facing oncoming traffic in the exposed left track position. In most cases, anyone who is riding in a group will quickly adapt to this change of conditions and track positions, but there may be times when a new rider who is trying to learn this whole concept will be very uncomfortable changing tracks. The sweeper should pay special attention to inexperienced riders under these conditions.

This pattern may occur not only during a lane change, but also during a passing maneuver or when a group gets separated in traffic because of signal lights and traffic flow.

The sweeper will usually notify the Lead Bike and the rest of the group after a brief separation by one or more riders that the group has re-formed by saying, “We’re family.” via communications or with an all thumbs up sign.

Changing Lanes into Faster-Moving Traffic

The same basic lane-changing principle for entering slow-moving lanes also applies when a group is entering faster-moving traffic where at least two lanes of traffic are moving in the same direction; that is, moving from the right lane to the left. The first bike to move creates a gap for the remaining bikes. Since traffic is pulling away from the group as each member enters the lane, this maneuver is done back to front.

The maneuver is accomplished in this manner: The Lead Bike signals for a lane change and announces to the group via CB and turn signals that the group will be moving to the left, back to front. Then the Lead Bike asks the sweeper to “secure the lane” to the left to which the sweeper should normally respond with “Stand by.” All station-keeping bikes maintain their position while this occurs, putting their own turn signals on to indicate the move to be made. The Sweeper then moves first when a space in the lane to the left opens up and radios to the Lead Bike and the group, “The lane is secured.” If no radio communications The lead bike will watch in his/her mirror for the all clear to sign.

No one is to change lanes at this point, however! First, each rider must make certain the lane is clear by actually turning his head to insure that there is no other vehicle still approaching the group in the left lane. If a vehicle is still moving up beside the group, the sweeper will usually say, “After the red truck,” or “After the station wagon,” etc. Whether or not a warning is given by the sweeper (who may have other concerns with the traffic to his rear), each rider must do a head-check before entering a faster-moving lane.

The second bike to move will be the one in front of the Sweeper. That rider moves across the tracks of the current lane, does a head-check, changes lane and then takes up a position in the track of the new lane where he was originally riding. By dropping to a speed slightly slower than the rate at which traffic in that lane has been traveling, each bike creates a gap into which the next bike forward can insert. Each rider follows this pattern: signal left, move left in your own lane, head-check, enter new lane, maintain (slower) speed to create gap, and take up regular position (left or right track) in the new lane.

The Lead Bike in this pattern is normally the last to enter the new lane. As the bikes move quickly and re-form their group, it is rare that a four-wheeler will move up into the gap in the new lane. If a cage moves into the gap, the next bike to move must wait for the cage to pass, so that a gap appears again. Then the maneuver can be completed and the group can re-form into a normal configuration.

Passing

On a busy two-lane road, oncoming traffic typically prevents a group from passing a slow-moving vehicle while in formation. Each member of the group must accomplish two lane changes in order to pass, and this usually is done on an individual basis.

Regardless of what a rider is told by others in the group about oncoming vehicles, each rider must personally check to see that the oncoming lane is clear of traffic before entering it.

If oncoming traffic requires the group to pass individually, the Lead Bike will signal the group to move into a single-file formation and will announce that the group members are to pass the vehicle one at a time. The forward members of the group will gradually position themselves in single file in the left track to prepare to pull into the oncoming lane. The Lead Bike will usually wait for a gap in oncoming traffic that is big enough for more than one bike to pass, but this is not always possible. When a safe interval is observed, the Lead Bike will put its left turn signal on and pull into the oncoming lane. After passing the “obstacle,” looking in the rear view mirror for clearance and actually turning the head to be sure the lane is clear, the Lead Bike then signals that it is moving into the right lane and does so, taking its normal position in front of the slower vehicle(s) in the left track. The Lead Bike must then maintain or even slightly increase its speed.

As with a lane change to the right, each bike should be aware of the need to create a gap into which the next bike in succession can fit after overtaking an obstacle. For this reason, each bike should maintain speed after passing, until the sweeper has passed and the group has re-formed.

Special care should be taken when passing not to focus on distant oncoming traffic to the point of establishing “target fixation.” The rider should continue to scan the environment for hazards and should plan escape routes in case of the unexpected; for example, the “obstacle” may come to life again when he sees motorcycles passing him and may accelerate while the rider is still in the oncoming lane, exposed to additional risk.

After he has passed the slower moving vehicle, the sweeper will usually notify the Lead Bike that the group is intact again by saying, “We’re family.” Or with thumbs up sign.

Number One Rule (The ‘Prime Directive’)

In a group ride, the primary job for every rider is to not hit the motorcycle in front of him.

Spacing Out

Especially on less-congested rural back roads, the riders in a group may spread out to create larger intervals between motorcycles. This allows a rider to relax a bit, to enjoy the scenery and the ride. If no four-wheelers are trying to pass the group, this is fine. However, the riders should remain close enough to each other to be able to see hand signals being passed back from the Lead Bike. Also, if a group is at maximum size (eight to ten bikes is usually the limit) and the riders spread out too much in hilly terrain, CB communication between the Lead Bike and the sweeper may be severely tested or lost. The Lead and sweeper cannot work together if they can’t communicate.

It is possible that a rider will also “space out” in terms of losing his concentration and will forget to practice safe riding strategies. If the rider has become too fatigued to ride properly, the sweeper will usually notice this first and will advise the Lead Bike that a rest stop is needed. If a rider is not riding safely enough to avoid endangering others in the group (because of lack of experience, medical problems, fatigue, or some other reason), the Lead Bike will usually discuss the problem privately with that rider at the next stop. If a problem cannot be solved reasonably in this way, the Lead Bike has absolute discretion to request that a rider leave the group and is entitled to expect the group to support this decision. In the case of a mechanical or minor medical problem, it is not unusual for another rider to accompany the distressed rider to get help. Sometimes if the Lead Bike just re-assigns the riders to new positions within the group, this is enough to bring a spaced-out motorcyclist back to a state of alert awareness.

Checking Out The Curves

On any stretch of curvy road and in any corner, a group may ride in single-file momentarily, to enable each rider to corner at his own speed and to have as much room as possible for maneuvering. This is especially important to riders with little experience in a group, as they may “wobble” or be nervous about making turns with another bike to their side or riding close behind them. This is an accepted variance to staggered formation; usually the Lead Bike will not signal for single-file at each turn but will expect the riders to choose their own path of travel.

Odd Formations and Maneuvers

Odd formations may be necessary in group riding when there is a member of the group which is not a standard, two-wheel motorcycle —  This includes three-wheeled motorcycles (“trikes”), bikes with a sidecar (“hacks”), bikes towing a trailer, or four-wheelers.

In each case, other than for four-wheelers, it’s a good idea to place the odd bike at the rear of the formation, in the last available slot. The group should also allow extra clearance and reaction time for a bike towing a trailer. Instead of a one-second interval between that bike and the next, and a two-second interval between it and the bike directly behind it in the same track, these minimum times should be doubled. For trikes and hacks, it is not so important to position these riders in a slot, but it is still a good idea, because these vehicles do not handle turns in the same way a motorcycle does. If a rider has difficulty handling an “odd duck” vehicle, the bike following it may need extra time to react, and the “odd duck” should not worry about being hit from the rear by a group member while he solves his problem. If there are several bikes towing trailers in a group, they should generally be riding at the back of the group, even if they are not all in slot positions.

When a four-wheeler is a part of a group, it should trail the group behind the sweeper bike. It helps if the four-wheeler is equipped with a CB radio. Additionally, that vehicle should drive with its headlights on at all times, to enable the sweeper to distinguish it from other cages if possible.

Hand Signals

Certain hand signals are optional in group riding: turn signals on the bikes ahead will usually advise a rider without a CB that a turn is coming up, for example, and hand signals in a turning situation may actually add to the danger for some. However, other hand signals are extremely helpful to the rider who has no other means to communicate.

The most important two hand signals for a non-CB equipped rider are these: pointing to an obstacle in the road, warning the rider to avoid it; and pointing to the tank. The rider who has no CB should be advised that, no matter what his reason, if he points to the tank on his bike, he will be telling those following him (especially the sweeper Bike) that he needs to stop as soon as possible. This may be because he needs fuel; or because he wants to make a “rest room stop”; because he is having a mechanical or equipment problem; because his co-rider is uncomfortable; because he has a medical problem; because he is having a crisis of confidence; or for any other reason at all. Such a signal will be relayed to the Lead Bike. If a convenient place is available, the Lead Bike may orchestrate a stop by the whole group. If not, the affected bike can count on the sweeper to stop with him to try to help him.

Other hand signals may be useful to bikes not equipped with a CB during a group ride. These include:

• Back off — Palm of left hand shown to group, pushing motion toward rear of bike
• Ready to ride –- “Thumbs up” high enough in air to be visible to Lead Bike
• Single-file formation — One finger points to the sky on top of the helmet (sometimes entire flat hand at 90 degrees to top of helmet)
• Slow down — Left arm is held out straight, then goes up and down
• Smoky alert (police or emergency vehicles) — Hand taps top of helmet several times
• Speed up or close ranks in formation — Left arm makes “windmill” sign
• Staggered formation — First finger and little finger point to the sky on top of the helmet (“Hook ‘em, Horns” sign)
• U-turn — Left hand makes circle in air over head

Universal ‘Caution/Warning/Danger’ Signal

Though it is not, yet, a universally agreed to signal, it should be. That is, whenever a rider observes a potential threat, or wants to announce that he may need to change speeds quickly, that rider is obliged to tap his front brake lever twice in rapid succession. Any rider following that bike needs to do two things when he observes that signal:

• slow down in order to widen his following distance
• repeat the signal to insure that bikes following receive the warning

In the event that no emergency or rapid speed change is needed or occurs within a minute or so of seeing that signal then all bikers can assume the potential emergency has passed and can resume normal speeds and spacing. Nothing was lost yet everyone took defensive postures, just in case. That, after all, was the purpose of the signal in the first place.

Exceptions to Normal Guidelines

The often-heard rule, “Ride Your Own Ride,” means that any guideline for group riding can and should be ignored when it doesn’t make sense. Determining whether this is the case and acting prudently is each rider’s individual responsibility at all times.

Under normal circumstances, the Lead Bike will choose a lane, will determine the speed at which the riders are to travel, will suggest the formation which makes maneuvers most safe, and will navigate.

Common exceptions to these guidelines occur with a rider who is not yet experienced with group riding. If a maneuver looks too dangerous or awkward for the new rider to complete safely, he or she should do what he needs to do to protect himself and avoid an accident. This may mean passing up a turn or taking it very slowly, or parking somewhere not with the group, or going more slowly through a curve than the riders ahead of him.

Each rider commands his entire area within a lane and may move to left or right in it as required.

Another exception: the sweeper may not travel in the same path as the rest of the group. If, for example, a two-lane road is narrowing so that a lane is about to be lost, the sweeper will frequently “close the door” by moving out of the group’s staggered formation into the lane which is soon to disappear. This is to prevent a four-wheeler from trying at the last minute to pass part of the group and then have to cut into it when the pavement runs out. Even if the riders near the back of the group observe that the sweeper is no longer in the position where he has been riding most of the time, they should maintain their own place in the group.

Rubber-Band (“Yo-yo”) Effect

Reaction time for a motorcyclist when confronted with an unexpected threat is, on average, about one second. If the need to react is anticipated (such as when a turn has been announced), then riders can usually react within about half a second after the bike ahead begins to react. When a group of riders change speeds very gradually, however, it usually takes two or three seconds for a rider to recognize this and begin to change his speed to maintain his position in the group.

This doesn’t sound like much time, but experienced group riders manage their risks reasonably well with a minimum one-second interval between each bike and a minimum two-second interval between bikes that are traveling in the same track. When the group has more than six bikes in it, however, gradual changes in speed within the group can become tricky.

When a Lead Bike begins to accelerate, the second bike doesn’t instantly start to travel at the faster rate. Instead, a gap grows between them while the second bike is reacting — and it continues to grow until the second bike is fully up to the increased, stable speed of the Lead Bike. Clearly, once the speeds are the same, the gap will remain the same size. However, since most groups prefer to keep a one-second minimum interval between bikes (two seconds between bikes in the same track), the new gap caused by the Lead Bike’s acceleration may be larger than is desired. When this occurs, the second bike must go faster than the first one for a brief time in order to “catch up.”

If we assume that the Lead Bike speeds up from 60 to 70 mph over a period of two seconds, the second bike will have to ride at 75 mph for two seconds (after his reaction time passes) in order to close the gap. Then he will take another one second to decelerate back to 70 mph to create a gap of the proper size.

If there were only two bikes in the group, this example is easy to follow. But when the group is larger, and the bikes involved are riding further back in the pack, the “rubber band” effect can be especially dangerous to all bikes from the middle of the group to the sweeper.

For example, the third bike in the group has this problem: About two seconds after the second bike has begun to accelerate, the third bike responds. Now, however, the second bike is moving at 75 mph rather than at 70 mph like the Lead Bike. The third bike must use even more effort to catch up to the second bike than the second bike did to match his speed to the Lead Bike’s new speed, if the gap is to stay relatively constant. He will have to move at 75 mph for four seconds, not two, to catch up. The fourth bike will have to accelerate to 80 mph!

In a group of only six motorcycles, the last one will find the gap between himself and the fifth bike has grown to 143 feet before it begins to close, once he starts to speed up, given these average reaction times. And it will be at least 11 seconds after the Lead Bike first began to accelerate before the sixth bike does so.

Now, imagine what happens in the group if, while this is taking place, the Lead Bike must apply his brakes! This rubber-band effect becomes extremely important if the Lead Bike happens to make an abrupt and major change of speed at certain critical moments, such as when approaching a sharp turn or a tricky curve.

The rubber-band effect can be reduced by following these guidelines:

• Lead Bike changes speed more gradually
• Lead Bike announces speed changes over the CB radio
• All riders watch farther ahead than just the bike immediately in front of them in order to notice and to react quicker to changes in speed
• All riders restrain the impulse to “crank it up” in order to quickly re-establish normal spacing
• Lead Bike does not increase speed within 15 seconds of entering a curve which may require braking or some slowing down to maneuver it safely
• All riders abandon the one-second spacing rule when riding twisties
• Groups should not be larger than six bikes per group if even one rider is not experienced at group riding. Groups should never be larger than eight bikes: break the groups down into smaller ones.

This problem has been described with respect to the acceleration of the Lead Bike. When the rubber band effect is considered in reverse — that is, when the Lead Bike is suddenly braking — these tips on how to avoid the rubber-band effect can be even more important. Those who ride as Lead Bike for their group should be aware of the importance of avoiding sudden changes in speed if at all possible, so as to reduce the risks to those following. Group riding can be as fun as you make it.

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain

 That you only have two wheels is of no consequence – you OWN the whole lane that they would try to share with you. If you were to change your mind and elect to not make that right turn, you would be in trouble. Worse, should that sharing vehicle actually decide to make a right turn too, you could easily be forgotten (in his/her blind spot) and they could drive right over you while making that turn.

Controlling your lane is as important as any other consideration when you choose your lane position.

 Keep, that contact Patch between the lines.

One of the reasons a concise answer on plugging punctures is so elusive is because each tire manufacturer, which every tire-plug manufacturer will ultimately defer to if pressed on the subject, has its own take on the topic.

Continental, Michelin, Pirelli position on dealing with punctures is clear as day: Don’t even bother carrying a plug kit. “Call a tow truck,” is how one VP of marketing replied when asked what to do when you get a flat. These tire manufacturers assert that there are too many variables involved, from the puncture to the repair, and that there is simply too much at risk in terms of rider safety and liability to condone it, even in an emergency. Most dealerships and repair shops share this sentiment. I agree on this. I have a very good friend who owns a motorcycle dealership and will not plug a tire period. Also My own Harley dealership will not plug a tire do to safety issues.  Of course other dealerships want your money and disregard  the safety factor. Ok with that said.

Fair enough. After all, your tires are the only part of your motorcycle that connects it to the road, and a rapid deflation resulting from an improper repair or unseen internal damage could cause a lot more parts of your motorcycle to make contact with the road. Even so, a canned “no” is not what riders want to hear when they just got a flat on a nearly new, $250 tire. Um I got my second nail in a new tire this summer. What are those odds two in one summer.

Ok other brands, specifically Avon, Bridgestone, Dunlop, and Metzeler, offer an opinion that’s more in line with what consumers would hope to hear: Yes, punctures can be plugged in an emergency situation, and a repair that both fills the wound (plug) and seals the damage (patch) that is installed by a professional can even be considered permanent if specific criteria are met.

While Avon, Bridgestone, Dunlop, Metzeler, and the RMA (the Rubber Manufacturer’s Association, the nation’s preeminent voice on the topic of tires) all agree that a combined plug/patch applied from the inside of the tire is the only acceptable permanent repair, each group has its own requirements and restrictions. Here are a few areas they all agree on.

Everyone who says that you can plug a tire (including tire-plug makers) agree that the repairable area is limited to the crown of the tire. “You cannot plug a sidewall because it doesn’t have the structure to hold the plug”. Not even the entire treaded area is fair game, since “closer to the sides the carcass flexes too much and the seal won’t take. The repair has to be within the belt package, which limits the repairable area to the center 50 percent of the tire. There must also be at least 1/32 inch (0.8mm) of tread remaining on the tire. Any less and the tire could flex too much to retain the repair.

The size and shape of the damage is another important factor. Tears or oblong punctures cannot be permanently repaired, and opinions on the size of round holes that can acceptably be repaired run the gamut from 3 mm (Avon) to 6.8mm (Dunlop). Assuming the puncture isn’t too big (research suggests that 90 percent of all punctures are the size of a 16-penny nail [4.1mm] or smaller) and was made in the right area, the tire will still need to be dismounted for inspection and have the appropriate plug/patch installed.

Beyond those very basic guidelines, opinions begin to diverge. As an example, Avon prohibits tires with “wound on” belting or tires with a speed rating higher than V (up to 149 mph) from being repaired, while Bridgestone contends that any repaired tire forfeits its speed rating and is limited to 80 mph. Dunlop says that any tire that’s previously seen a liquid sealant is excluded from repair, while Metzeler simply defers to “your country’s regulations” to determine if repair is legal in the first place (in America it is). When it comes down to it, if you really want to know the specifics for your tires, your best bet is to contact the company embossed on the sidewall. Basically this is my own opinion here that all tire manufactures will sell you their tire but will not honor the warranty if you put a plug in it.

As stated, every manufacturer that permits permanent repairs says that an off-the-rim inspection is mandatory. Why? Since tubeless tires are unlikely to bleed all of their pressure at once when punctured, it’s possible for the rider to be unaware of a leak and cruise along on a deflating tire. This isn’t uncommon and leads to the possibility of internal tire damage, either from overheating or from the puncturing object gouging the tire’s inner surface after deflation has occurred. My opinion here is I do believe that with the tire heating up then cooling then heating up again causes the plug to work its way a little lose.

Additionally, escaping air can creep between the plies of the tire, encouraging tread separation. This scenario is of particular concern on steel-belted tires (the majority of motorcycle tires on the road today are steel belted) since any ingress of moisture can cause the steel strands to rust and eventually fail.

Any damage to the structure of the tire could lead to a catastrophic failure, and a thorough inspection of both surfaces of the tire is the best way to nip a catastrophe in the bud—that, or just replace the tire, which is always the first recommendation, regardless of who you ask.

Great, but what if you can’t replace the tire or dismount it for inspection and repair because, say, you’re in the middle of nowhere with no cell service and a descending sun? “If you need to get off the side of the road, you do what you have to do to get to a safer location.”

That’s where the myriad aftermarket tire-plug kits come into play. Common options include the ubiquitous rubber-impregnated ropes, Stop & Go’s mushroom plugs, Dynaplugs’ brass-tipped ropes, Gryyps’ screw-in “cargols,” and liquid products from Slime and Ride On. Each product has its own purported benefits, whether it be ease of use or affordability, but the underlying idea is that they’re all emergency repairs. Out of all the options, mushroom-style plugs like those sold by Stop & Go are the only form of temporary repair endorsed by manufacturers, namely Avon and Metzeler. And don’t forget that once you plug the tire, you’ll still need to inflate it.

If you began reading this piece with a firm stance on tire repair and now feel like you’re standing on shaky ground, I apologize.  As I said in the beginning of this post, how you should go about dealing with a flat really depends on who you ask. And, ultimately, the only person left to ask is yourself. Hopefully after reading this you are better equipped to make your own decision. As you know I’m all about safety and I do not plug a motorcycle tire. This is all up to you.

It used to be a solid no,“But opinions have evolved.” The original cause for concern was tire flex, which could cause the tube to overheat and rupture. However, today’s tubeless radials are more rigid and unlikely to cause issues when used with an appropriate-size inner tube as an emergency repair, but other manufacturers, including Bridgestone and Metzeler, still prohibit it.

A tube may serve as an acceptable way to deal with a punctured tire, but if you are considering carrying a tube (and the tools needed to remove the wheel and tire), why not just carry the appropriate patch/plug and perform a more reliable, potentially permanent repair?

AIRING UP

Because Sometimes You Want More Pressure In Your Life

There are numerous ways to plug a punctured tubeless tire and lots of methods to re-inflate it too. For side-of-the-road repairs, the three most common sources of pressure are CO 2 cartridges, compact electric compressors, and old-fashioned hand pumps.

A compressor that runs off your bike’s battery offers unlimited air supply anytime you need it, but these devices can be bulky and expensive. Manual pumps like those used for bicycles (high-volume pumps designed for mountain-bike tires are the way to go here) also offer unlimited fill-ups, but they also require a tremendous amount of elbow grease!

CO 2 cartridges are another popular option. They’re compact and easy to use, but it takes a lot of them to fill a tire (six 12-gram canisters will inflate a 180/55-17 tire to about 20 psi according to tests), and you can only use them once. When discharging CO 2, keep in mind that the gas exiting the canister is extremely cold (about -50 Fahrenheit), so protect your hands and remember that the tire pressure will rise quite a bit as the gas warms to ambient temperature; there’s no need to inflate to final pressure with the canisters.

Another option for airing up in an emergency is a parasitic hose with two clamp-on female ends. This device isn’t commercially available but should prove easy to assemble at home and will allow you to draw pressure from another vehicle’s tire in an emergency.

So do you Plug your tire or Not.

Michael Theodore

National Road Captain